The Omega Speedmaster full guide: price, models, quotations

Introduction

The Omega Speedmaster collection includes some of the brand’s most admired models and is recognized as one of the most desired luxury sports chronographs.

Each timepiece, especially in its original shape and size, belongs to a specific historical timeline. Initially launched as a sports timing device, it quickly became famous thanks to its association with space discovery and the Moon landing, thus becoming an icon.

Unstoppably renewed and upgraded, yet timeless whatever the edition, the Speedmaster counts endless aesthetic and technical variations. We decided to collect all the models we have reviewed so far in this guide that we will keep continuously updated.

Any guide shall include a price map. Here is why we’ll start exploring the current price list of the Omega Speedmaster by macro sub-family. Whether you’re a newcomer or an avid Speedmaster fan, you can quickly compare the budget to the latest pricing.

Also, remember that we won’t include the modern Speedmaster 38, the X–33, and Z–33 collections in the article, for the time being.

Omega Speedmaster: retail price list

Before exploring history and models, here is the price range sorted by category as of July 2022:

• Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional: price list from €6,400 to €52,600
• Omega Speedmaster Historical Models: price list from €6,000 (Mark II) to €81,300 (Speedmaster Caliber 321 in Canopus ™ Gold)
• Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon: price list from €10,400 to €24,700
• Omega Speedmaster Two Counters: price list from €8,900 to €51,800

Let’s now explore the history (in brief), the case materials and the quality-to-price ratio to finally highlight which models hopefully represent a good choice according to collectors or those looking for a fair investment.

History, in brief.

The first ever Omega Speedmaster debuted in 1957 and was designed by Claude Ballot. The first-ever reference is the Omega Speedmaster CK2915, recently revamped as an exclusive Canopus™ Gold edition powered by the re-engineered calibre 321, introduced in 2022; the Omega 321 Speedmaster Canopus™ Gold 321 is the most expensive Speedmaster ever, followed by the platinum Moonwatch housing the same mechanical movement.

Here are the main design traits of the original CK2915:

• a 39-millimetre symmetrical case with straight lugs
• no protection on the crown and Chrono pushers
• a ⅕ of a second chronograph scale

It originally housed the 27 CHRO C12 calibre, where 27 stands for the overall size, “CHRO” means it’s a chronograph, and the wording C12 refers to the 12-hour Chrono counter.

The movement was conceived by Albert Piguet and dated back to 1943; in 1946, Omega improved it by adopting an anti-shock device and an anti-magnetic balance wheel. The first asymmetrical case appeared in 1964 with the ref. ST 105.012 (carrying the wording “Professional” for the first time), while in 1968, the calibre 861 replaced the legendary 321.

The above mentioned are a few historical technical milestones summarizing the long, rich and intricate history of the Omega Speedmaster, whose Moonwatch variant is a relevant chapter but not the only one.

Design cues, main case parts and traits

The Speedmaster is among the most admired and well-executed chronographs ever, whose pedigree is second to none, including the legendary Daytona, despite being quite different from each other. For example, the Speedmaster is the only hand-winding luxury chronograph in its product category and a source of inspiration for most V-shaped three-counter timepieces.

Moon and Pre-Moon Speedmaster

However, let’s split the analysis between the so-called Pre-Moon models, whose symmetrical case measures less than 40 mm, and comes with no-protection push pieces as stated before – well exemplified by the legendary CK2915 or the Speedmaster First Omega in Space worn by Wally Schirra in 1962, and the more familiar Moonwatch models.

The now-discontinued Speedmaster First Omega in Space model was the first-ever Speedmaster to revamp this specific design.

Please consider that we won’t extend the analysis for the sake of the reader’s time; countless product variants have been released over the years.

The main traits include the three signature, slightly recessed counters, baton hands (replaced by the “Broad Arrow” or “Alpha” hands-on other models) and no date at all across all the hand-wound models. As a result, the dial is clean and makes the Speedmaster a timeless sports chronograph from 1957.

A two-counter Speedy

However, Omega has introduced a two-counter design with a date, too, powered by self-winding calibres or not; that’s the case of the hand-wound 40.5 mm large Speedmaster ‘57 powered by the 2022 new single-bridge calibre 9906 or the Moonphase Speedmaster.

The finest hand-wound calibre is the 321 you may find in the first, highly sought-after models in the contemporary “Heritage Models” collection, whose ambition is to leverage Omega‘s premium positioning. Currently (2022), an Omega Speedmaster‘s case measures between 38,6mm (Speedmaster 321 Canopus™ Gold) and 44,25mm (Co-Axial Master Chronometer).

How a Speedmaster is made

The original Omega Speedmaster came in steel, and steel is any sports chronograph’s primary material. Designed initially to time sporting events, it soon became the space watch par excellence. Nonetheless, many legendary Omega Speedmaster comes in gold too.

Here is the Omega Speedmaster Apollo XI model reference BA145.022 made of yellow gold with black applied onyx indexes, for instance. This model, built-in 1014 pieces initially offered to the Apollo 11 crew project upon their return from space, is perhaps the most attractive Gold Speedmaster Moonwatch ever.

In 2019, to celebrate the moon landing’s fiftieth anniversary, Omega introduced a commemorative limited edition model, adopting a case and bracelet in proprietary Moonshine™ Gold. Today, the Speedmaster comes in several options from platinum to ceramic (like the Apollo 8 or Alinghi models, for instance), either housing a hand-wound or a self-winding calibre.

Quality to price analysis. Is the Omega Speedmaster a good investment?

The Speedmaster collection has faced a steady growth in value over the past two years, with its average market price growing further, as exemplified by some specific limited edition models celebrating milestone historical events or space missions.

In terms of investment and contemporary models, no Speedmaster can currently compete against the Omega Speedmaster Snoopy, whose percentage growth is impressive in the benchmark.

The most-wanted Speedmaster

Topping the ranking is the Snoopy reference 311.32.42.30.04.003, whose market quotations range between 40,000 and 50,000 euros, followed by the latest fifty-anniversary Silver Snoopy Award and the first-ever Snoopy Award, essentially an ordinary old-collection Speedmaster Moonwatch housing a Snoopy badge within the counter at nine, and on the case back.

When it comes to the latest edition, the Silver Snoopy Award 50th Anniversary, you can hardly get one; the waiting list is endless.

Regarding the ordinary collection, the recently renovated Speedmaster Moonwatch, which you can explore by scrolling through the article, is priced (July 2022) at around 7,700 euros with a base price of 6,400€ on a strap.

Master Chronometer and fourth-gen Speedmaster bracelet

It features a Master Chronometer certified calibre 1861, coded as 3861, a fourth-generation Speedmaster new bracelet like the case. Build quality and details have grown too; let’s expect the Speedmaster Moonwatch to grow in specs and price moving forward, and even more so should Omega extend to a Moonwatch its new O-Megasteel alloy introduced with the Ultradeep.

Therefore, if you’re willing to buy one, it does represent a great option and a secure investment. The Speedmaster‘s allure is so high that it’ll soon join the ten thousand euros list price territory, where most steel luxury watches are.

In addition, a classic Omega Moonwatch is easy to swap on the second-hand marketplace. It is undoubtedly a no-regret purchase if you’re prone to rotate your collection often and consider a timepiece an asset in your investment portfolio, despite those buying a Speedmaster Moonwatch keeping it.

From an investment perspective, the Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space model was a surprise; its symmetrical case, measuring less than 39 mm, with beautiful “Alpha” hands, is an excellent option for a Moonwatch, either in steel or Sedna™ gold.

Who’s the Omega Speedmaster’s potential buyer?

In our opinion, there’s no profiled customer; anyone adding any Omega Speedmaster (modern or vintage, and hand-wind from our perspective) to their collection owns a sports chronograph whose design is timeless, and pedigree is unmatched.

The Omega Speedmaster is like an all-season made-to-measure suit. The only letdown is that you can barely use it during summer since its waterproof capabilities are restricted, especially on hand-winding models. You’d better go for a Seamaster, then.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional

It is the most wanted Speedmaster model; here is why our cover photo regards the fully renewed and upgraded 2021 collection. We took our hands on the model last year, and with the new Moonwatch, we’re going to deploy our full-review list.

Pictured above are all the current Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Professional product references, as displayed on the official Omega website as of July 2022.

Omega Moonwatch Master Chronometer 3861

Revealed during the 2021‘s first Speedy Tuesday, the new Omega Moonwatch Master Chronometer 3861 was the missing piece in the Speedmaster Moonwatch collection’s full renovation process so far, and opens a new era for the Swiss brand’s most coveted and sought-after timepiece. The luxury sports hand-wound chronograph has undergone a thorough re-engineering, far more intense than what meets our eye at first glance.

What’s new with the 2021 Omega Moonwatch Master Chronometer?

Please don’t hate us if you don’t find us listed among the now-phased-out Omega Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch‘s most prominent supporters; an Omega 311.33.42.30.01.001 did not fully mimic this legendary chronograph’s foothold, to be honest.

The 2021 new Moonwatch is shaking things up and pays homage to the case style historically coded as 105.012, thus showcasing a modern take on the wristwatch once worn by Apollo 11‘s astronauts. The second experiment in a row follows Omega‘s fourth-gen inspired Silver Snoopy Award, quite a hot piece already according to statistics and waiting lists.

As a result, the 2021 Moonwatch welcomes a “Step dial” and the “dot over ninety,” thus grabbing the attention of connoisseurs and vintage Speedmasters aficionados who’re loving the new Speedmaster 321 too.

The new Omega Moonwatch’s case design

When I first wore the Silver Snoopy, I realized the first change over previous generations was the superior build quality. While drawing inspiration from an older generation, each recent iteration looks upscale in materials, refinement, technical prowess.

Although I would have loved Omega to finally introduce proprietary steel on the likes of Sedna™, Canopus™, or Moonshine™ Gold instead, the new Moonwatch has a more luxurious feel and is far more compelling and rich in details than ever before (e.g., please see the double-stepped solid case back).

Proportions

To most people and to my surprise too, the overall case proportions have dramatically changed, something you won’t read in the specs’ sheet: measuring 42mm across, the new one comes with either reduced thickness and lug to lug distance (top-down) to make the new Speedy smaller than it looks from afar.

Both steel options stop well under 14 millimeters, with the sapphire glass Moonwatch measuring 13,2 mm instead of the 13.6 mm you’ll find on the hesalite-crystal. It is a substantial improvement over the old one, and it’s a key feature I would emphasize, along with the inside-and-out re-engineered bracelet, from a communication standpoint.

Water resistance?

That’s a pity the 2021 new Speedmaster Moonwatch timepieces still offer a water resistance of up to 50 meters instead. Although I won’t expect any Speedy to perform like a Seamaster, 100-meter water tightness and a screw-down crown represents a missed opportunity.

Finally, the almost entirely brushed finish is usually not a build quality amplifier; I would have gone here for a different polished-to-brushed surface ratio as per their direct contenders in this class of products.

Sporty yet easily recognizeable, as usual

However, the new Moonwatch conveys sporty elegance and “understatement” while being the closest new thing to the first and only watch worn on the moon. The Hesalite Moonwatch‘s bracelet is entirely brushed on top; in contrast, the Sapphire Moonwatch‘s thin mid-links are mirror-polished.

Next is the bezel, whose inlay is in aluminum. Well, I get the point of not adopting a ceramic ring, but I’m not sure a die-hard fan won’t appreciate it. Last week, the new Omega Moonwatch 2021 was among the hottest topics among our Space Omega Club‘s members’ discussions, as expected, and the redesigned bracelet was the most coveted.

How is the Omega Moonwatch Master Chronometer’s bracelet made?

Here is, from a consumer’s perspective, the new collection’s “game-changer”; no photo or video could ever do justice to how the new compares to the old one. It’s where designers and engineers put their most extraordinary effort to make the Moonwatch 2021 feel and wear differently.

Once on your wrist, it is so light that it feels like it’s made of titanium: measuring 20 millimeters on top (according to lug-to-lug distance) it tapers down to 15 mils close to the fully redesigned Omega clasp.

If you’re eager to experience where the Moonwatch 2021 is different from the Moonwatch 2020, you’d better stop here for a while. I’m sure the new Speedmaster Professional Moonwatch 2021 will grab new followers searching for class and comfort.

The dial

It is unmistakably Speedmaster Professional from any angle. The “Step” dial, the curved hour and minute hands, the applied Omega logo, and the green-glowing baton indexes are familiar.

Again, Omega‘s designers did a great job in fine-tuning and refining one of the most loved and recognizable watch dials; it is quite a challenging and dangerous task altogether when you’re updating such a legendary chronograph.

Omega new caliber 3861

The mechanical movement’s upgrade is a welcomed technical upgrade; the 2020 Omega Moonwatch is not up to the task anymore and outperformed inside and out of the brand. The new Master Chronometer certified movement preserves the Lemania-based layout while replacing two old calibers in one go. Let me remind the old Hesalite Moonwatch is housing the caliber 1861, and the Sapphire Moonwatch adopts the better decorated 1863 instead.

Capable of ensuring a mere 50 hours of maximum power reserve, it is far more accurate and technologically advanced than the caliber it is replacing. According to specifications, the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch 2021 guarantees a +/– 5 seconds per day accuracy, thus considerably extending the COSC standard.

Omega Moonwatch Canopus™ Gold

While we’re quite familiar with Sedna™ Gold (the new Moonwatch Sedna™ Gold wasn’t available this time around), Canopus™ Gold is a kind of forbidden fruit. It belongs to Omega‘s offering since 2018, and here is its first-ever appearance on a Moonwatch.

Originally introduced on the classic Seamaster trio of watches celebrating the 2018 Winter Olympics, it also appeared on a couple of Omega Tresor. It also appeared on the flagship De Ville Tourbillon Co-Axial Master Chronometer 43 mm.

Strangely enough, there are very few pieces of information regarding this patented gold alloy, which gives the Moonwatch Canopus™ Gold a cool grey-frosted appearance. That’s a great piece if you’re a gold Moonwatch lover and collector, whose price is second to the glorious Omega 321 in platinum.

Which Moonwatch would I take, and why? Final thoughts

If you thought, before reading this article, that the new Moonwatch was just a 3861–powered old formula, you’re wrong. There’s a giant leap between old and new Moonwatch. Case design and proportions are different; the dial is different, and, finally, the bracelet is different too.

I also believe the prospect buyer is somewhat different. More refined, better built, and with a distinctive new sporty-elegant bracelet, the new Moonwatch is an eye-catcher.

I think Omega nailed it with the 2021 product family, and I hope it keeps abandoning the Limited Edition marketing strategy. It’s out of date to a brand this exclusive, aiming to lead in the premium luxury.

To sum it up, the 2021 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Master Chronometer 3861 is a winner, whose delta price over the old generation is fair.

Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition.

The 6969–piece Omega Speedmaster Apollo 11 50th Anniversary Limited Edition aesthetically respects proportions and overall size and feel of the current Moonwatch but debuts a long list of impressive new features. The case is, as usual, in steel and 42mm wide, but the bezel comes now in Moonshine™ Gold, the proprietary yellow gold alloy patented by Omega, while the tachymeter scale is in Ceragold™.

A collector’s piece

It appears and feels quintessentially Moonwatch, yet the upgrade is remarkable. Moonshine™ Gold has been extended to the dial, and adopted for the applied indexes, the double-one digit index placed at eleven o’clock to mimic the Apollo 11 mission and, finally the sub-dial at nine o’clock, that was first blackened, then laser engraved with the image of Buzz Aldrin as he’s climbing down onto the lunar surface.

Yellow Moonshine™ Gold accents are present on the case-back too where the 18K Gold written Neil Armstrong‘s legendary quote surrounds the astronaut’s laser-engraved footprint on the lunar surface.

NAIAD Lock

The case-back is secured via a Naiad Lock system that made its first appearance on a Seamaster and that comes now on a Speedmaster too. The most relevant technical advancement is inside the case. Omega has introduced the new Omega Master Co–Axial calibre 3861, certified by METAS, equipped with a Co–Axial escapement (see below shows the calibre 1861 on the left alongside the new calibres).

The watch comes in a unique box, including a watch holder in the shape of an Apollo 11 lunar module, an extra Velcro strap with black cork coating and the mission badges.

This reference pairs with the Omega 310.60.42.50.99.001, made of Moonshine™ Gold, a burgundy ceramic inlay and faceted onyx indexes. Offered in a limited series, it celebrates the historic Omega Speedmaster gifted to astronauts upon their return from the lunar landing mission.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Apollo 17 45th Anniversary Limited Edition

The mysterious origins

In 1966 the black and white Ultra Q television series premiered the long-running cult television series Ultraman from 1967, where the main character is Ultraman. It was a superhero fighting monsters from space, who can use his super powers for a limited period of time (3 minutes only). What would link the Speedmaster to this TV series? The “mythological” origins of the Speedmaster Moonwatch Ultraman are all but clear; they are still mysterious even for Omega.

The Speedy already appeared in the Ultra Q TV series through the 105.003 reference and thanks to the producer Eiji Tsuburaya’s passion for watches and for the Speedmaster.

In 1968 Omega produced a Speedmaster with an orange central chrono counter. About 3,000 pieces of this timepiece were manufactured and shipped all over the world.

In 1971 the sequel to the TV series (The return of Ultraman) aired for the first time in full colour and the main character turned from being black and white to a new colour combination. Orange and grey. Possibly it became a bit easier for the producer Tsuburaya to create a link between the series and that Speedmaster. The continuation of that story is known to everybody already. This version of the Speedmaster went to become one of the most popular references among collectors and was renamed the Speedmaster Ultraman!

#SPEEDYTUESDAY – 2

On 10 July 2018 Omega sent an e-mail to its members announcing an imminent piece of news, as confirmed by the post teasers released on the company’s Instagram and Facebook profiles. At 12pm, on the official website of the manufacturer, the Speedmaster Limited Edition 42mm “Ultraman” was placed for sale; it was the second edition of the series “Speedytuesday” limited to 2,012 pieces (2012 is also the year when the hastag #speedytuesday appeared on Instagram for the first time).

On the legendary Speedmaster Ultraman the orange shades linked it to the Japanese TV series, whereas on this timepiece it is the new limited edition #speedytuesday that runs like a red thread almost to formalize the nickname of its predecessor.

Many details on this watch remind us of the superhero Ultraman; the minutes chronograph scale features the first 3 notches in an orange color to recall the fateful 3 minutes during which Ultraman was gifted with his super powers. The real gem, however, is to be found at 9 o’clock where the small seconds counter hides Ultraman’s face that can be seen only under UV rays with the use of the tool supplied together with the chronograph.

The Omega logo used on the dial is the vintage logo also appearing on the 1968 reference and it dominates the orange “Speedmaster” writing. Applied minutes indexes appear on the dial topped by orange dots and a touch of color also comes from the tachymeter scale with its orange “TACHYMETRE” writing. Inside the case we can find the tried-and-tested Omega 1861 calibre, while the winding crown also features a vintage logo and a denser gear than that of the classic Speedmaster Professional.

Watch box and Retail Price

The case of this limited version is original and very well executed; it takes up the shape of the hexagonal table used by Ultraman’s monster attack team! Inside the case, in addition to the Speedmaster Limited Edition Ultraman, you’ll find two straps; one in leather with two orange stitching and a NATO strap with a central orange stripe, there is also the strap replacement tool with the UV lamp at its end. In 1 hour 53 minutes and 17 seconds all the timepieces were sold online for €6,020.

Omega Speedmaster 321

It is, as stated above, the most prestigious Omega Speedmaster collection. The Calibre 321 is a refined hand-wound Chrono movement with a column wheel and horizontal clutch. The sub-collection, titled “Heritage Model”, gathers three models: one in steel, one in Canopus™ gold and the third in platinum with a Professional “Moonwatch” case.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Caliber 321 “Ed White”

The 2020 Moonwatch Calibre 321 is inspired by the 3^rd generation Speedmaster worn in 1965 by astronaut Ed White during the first spacewalk (Gemini 4 mission). This exquisite Moonwatch is 39,7mm across, but, unlike a First Omega in Space, features a glossy black ceramic bezel (ZrO2), with white enameled tachymeter scale, and “Moonwatch” hands, and vintage Omega logo.

Beating inside is a kind of reverse-engineered (and modern in every respect) Omega Calibre 321. The 321 ranks among the most refined and respected hand-wound mechanical chronograph movements in watchmaking; it features a column–wheel mechanism with a horizontal clutch, a Breguet hairspring, and an 18K Sedna™ gold finish. It truly is a feast for the eyes to any watch connoisseur.

Unlike its Omega siblings, the modern Omega 321 is hand-assembled by a handful of master watchmakers in a specific Omega laboratory. A single watchmaker oversees full assembly to guarantee top-notch quality and precision rate. The product reference is the Omega 311.30.40.30.01.001 and retails for 13,400 Euros.

If you are looking for the most precious Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Calibre 321, you can opt for a 42mm large Professional case made of a special alloy combining platinum and gold (Pt950Au20). Again, the bezel is in black ceramic with a white enameled tachymeter scale, a shining black onyx dial, showcasing vintage Omega logo, and 18–carat white gold indexes and hands.

The icing on the cake is the three Chrono registers; they come in the lunar meteorite. The most expensive Moonwatch Calibre 321 is the Omega reference 311.93.42.30.99.001, retailing for 63.300 Euro.

Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space

A renovated Speedmaster 321 appeared once the Speedmaster First Omega in Space collection was phased out. The latter originally included a steel model and a Sedna™ gold one, followed by two two-tone steel models marked CK2998. The original version became famous when worn by astronaut Walter (Wally) Schirra during the 1962 “Sigma 7” mission.

As said, this collection is no longer available. However, it is equally interesting for its historical value and features that make it an alternative to a Professional Speedmaster, geared towards those looking for a symmetrical less-than-40 mm case.

Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space Numbered Edition

It is a numbered edition showcasing a 39.7mm diameter steel case and straight lugs, brown leather strap, black bezel with tachymeter scale and the classic 3-counter layout with “Alpha” hands, covered by a cambered scratch-resistant sapphire crystal.

The movement is the Omega calibre 1861. The product reference is 311.32.40.30.01.001.

Omega Speedmaster First Omega in Space CK 2998

The reference 2998 draws inspiration from a 1959 model.

This Speedmaster adopts a new panda dial and black or blue ceramic bezel inlay.

The Alpha hands pair with a lollipop-shaped central Chrono hand filled with Super–Luminova®. The indexes are applied, and their end part is filled with green luminescent material as on the tachymeter scale.

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon

The collection combines all the Speedmasters with ceramic cases, either hand-wound or self-winding (housing three or two counters). Given the number of models shown, collecting them all in one picture is hard.

The Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8

This model is a Moonwatch Professional, but the brand decided to finally list it in the Dark Side of the Moon sub-category, given its black ceramic case.

Ceramic, Laser and Tradition all together

The  Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8‘s black ceramic 44,25mm case shape is quintessentially Omega Speedmaster, so what is so special about this chronograph?

It is simple and through the anti-reflective sapphire crystal glass (no hexalite) you can see a perfect reproduction of the Moon on the dial – it is finely crafted using a precise laser abrasion treatment.

The partial skeletonization allows the user to get a glimpse of the Omega 1869 calibre, comparable to the classic Omega 1861 from a mechanical standpoint; yet, it features a laser engraving on the bridges and sports darker tones.

The Omega Apollo 8 – the details that are a reference to the NASA enterprise.

In 1968, the Apollo 8 NASA mission crew was the first to witness the Moon’s dark side; 50 years later, Omega aims to celebrate that mission with the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8. The dial is lighter than the back of the watch. The former mimics the bright side of the satellite, whereas the back depicts the dark side instead.

Through the sapphire crystal case-back, you can appreciate the laser work performed on the bridges – an eye-catching effect that intentionally contrasts the spring and the gear train coated with nickel. Alongside the sapphire crystal is an engraving with the following quote “See you on the other side”, pronounced by astronaut Jim Lovell.

Also, consider that Apollo 8’s crew orbited the Moon 10 times within 20 hours as if they were racing. I, therefore, believe here is the reason why the dial’s design features yellow-racing indexes and a matching perforated leather strap with yellow stitching.

Yellow is one of Omega watches’ favourite colours.

Here is not the first-ever Omega Speedmaster with yellow tones; the brand has released various models, measuring 40mm, with yellow tones like the reference 326.32.40.50.04.001 or the special edition named after Michael Schumacher, the Omega reference 3810.12.40.

We link the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 more to the Aqua Terra > 15.000 Gauss, despite being so different from each other.

Here is an Omega Speedmaster fan’s opinion.

As we write this article, we suddenly realize that the more you look at this timepiece, the more it catches your attention – the dial is so complicated that it somehow breaks with the traditional sleekness of an Omega Speedmaster. Nonetheless, it allows us to enjoy new details each time we look at it.

The tachymetric scale and the Omega logo on the crown glow once in the dark, as with the whole Omega Speedmaster Dark Side Of The Moon models. It is as purposeful as it adds to the overall product’s refinement; it finally proves attention to detail.

An Omega 1869 calibre helps reduce the case’s thickness (13.8mm) compared to any Omega Dark Side of the Moon collection housing the Omega 9300 self-winding movement. It might sound evident, but it makes us love this watch even further. We would have gone for a case size reduction, too.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 retail price

An Apollo 8 retails for € 10,400, in line with the exclusive technical features, which include a zirconium oxide case and a specific fine-engineered mechanical movement.

The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon ALINGHI

When Omega introduced the Speedmaster Moonwatch Chronograph Dark Side of the Moon Apollo 8 in 2018, it essentially released a modern take on the original Moonwatch, adopting the Dark Side of the Moon‘s ceramic technology on a classic Moonwatch. Although less conventional than the newly marketed 321 or a Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday, the Apollo 8 is, in our opinion, a stunner.

Building on the Apollo 8 experience

We wondered whether it represented a one-off project or the beginning of a new collection of ceramic-made hand-wind Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch. An Apollo 8’s case has exquisite craftsmanship, and pairing it with a hand-wound calibre makes it even more appealing.

The great news is that Omega has doubled, adapting that formula to a new timepiece to celebrate the partnership with the ALINGHI team.

The Alinghi logo

An Alinghi logo is not new to watch collectors. The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon ALINGHI is the last of several timepieces to showcase the signature “A” logo on the dial or back.

However, it seems the partnership between the two Swiss brands is enduring, and the newly released Speedmaster is a must-have if you’re a fan of sailing and America’s Cup.

Dark Side of the Moon ALINGHI

The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon ALINGHI features a 44,25mm wide zirconium oxide case whose mirror-polished ceramic bezel stands out, thanks to a white-filled Super–Luminova® tachymeter scale. White is also the Omega logo engraved on the winding crown (they both glow green in the dark).

Both the Speedmaster logo and the “Tachymeter” wording engraved on the bezel are in Alinghi red. The logo stands atop an aluminium rotating disc placed on the counter at six; it appears on the start-and-stop Chrono button. The top news is the Omega 1865 calibre.

A new calibre

When Omega unveiled the Apollo 8, it debuted a new movement (along with a new industrial process). It derives from the standard 1861, whose bridges were laser ablated to reproduce the lunar surface.

They replicated this experiment with a different target in mind. The Omega 1865 and 1869 calibres are sister movements, showcasing other surface treatments. Since Carbon fibre composites and “honeycomb” structures are the mainstream in today’s sails’ engineering, Omega’s watchmakers reproduced such patterns on the movement.

Designers gave the main plate and barrel bridge a honeycomb effect reminiscent of the ALINGHI TF35 catamaran’s carbon hull. All other bridges come with a black carbon pattern inspired by the material used for the boat’s hull. Nothing other than a chronograph could be the preferred choice during a “match race.”

Thoughts

I think Omega nailed it, introducing a sporty, uncommon take on the Speedmaster Moonwatch that sets apart from space exploration, and celebrates a fascinating competition. The Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon ALINGHI is already available and retails for Euro 10,300.

Omega Speedmaster Two Counters

Here is a collection including only two-register watches with self-winding or manual movements. The latest releases include the exquisite Speedmaster ‘57 collection renewed in 2022, the Chronoscope and a wide range of Moonphase models.

Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph

Take a Speedmaster Co–Axial Chronometer with blue dial and bezel and replace the glorious 9300 calibre with the new 9904/9905 ones. Here is the new Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Co-Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph.

The term “Master” summarizes the achievement of the new Master Chronometer certification. Here is the first and only entirely anti-magnetic movement ever crafted in the history of Horlogerie.

Evolution

The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Co–Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph is the evolution of the Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Co–Axial Chronograph.

It was followed by the Dark Side and Grey Side Of The Moon with a zirconium-oxide-made-case, and the four ceramic-made Speedmaster timepieces introduced in 2015.

METAS Certification

Fast forward to 2016, you’ll discover how the watch evolved. It is the first Chrono awarded with the METAS certification, the new standard replacing the COSC certification. Those familiar with the COSC certification know it is a watch movement-based test.

The METAS certification, whose testing standards were described in our article about the Globemaster, focuses on a movement’s fully anti-magnetic properties.

A 9904 calibre is a moon-phase Chrono and was engineered to abide by the rules of the synodic cycle, which equals 29,5 days.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Co–Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph is the first Speedmaster equipped with a Liquidmetal™-made bezel sporting a tachymetric scale.

Moon phase complication

It is also the first Moonwatch equipped with a moon-phase complication where the pictured moon is a miniature out of a very HD picture. If you take a closer look, you’ll notice the image of the first human step set upon the “Sea of Tranquility“.

The timepiece adopts a whopping 44,25mm Professional case with curved lugs. On top, there’s a double-glass-box sapphire crystal you can also find – flat – on the see-through case back.

By looking through the sapphire crystal, you can view the new 9904 (or 9905) calibre, a 9300 family-based calibre. The new movement has 368 parts, comes equipped with a Co–Axial escapement and offers above-15,000–Gauss magnetic-field resistance. Most of all, it is the first chronograph awarded with the METAS certification ever.

Is this the end of the COSC certification era? Unless the Swiss institute is currently trying to develop an alternative to the METAS certification, I reckon its industrial end is approaching. Two mainspring barrels also guarantee up to 60 hours of power reserve. The timepiece is water resistant up to 100 meters.

Omega strived to keep the watch recognizable as a Speedmaster, despite the colours and materials option coming with the two-register Chrono layout. This design might look new to those who own an ordinary Omega Speedmaster.

The Omega Speedmaster Moonphase Co–Axial Master Chronometer Chronograph is impressive, bold and technically appealing. Omega introduced five options at launch. Among the most interesting ones are the Sedna™ gold models adopting a white dial or the platinum one issued in 57 pieces. It showcases a moon–grey dial and a contrasting red Liquidmetal™ bezel.

Retail price

The retail price totals around 60,000euro; it is the most expensive Master Chronograph self-winding Omega Speedmaster for sale and, probably, the most attractive, too. The Liquidmetal™ bezel comes in a beautiful purple-red hue, while the two platinum moons perfectly contrast with the gold-made and hand-enamelled disc.

Mechanical complications, innovation and design seem to have squared the circle, despite the 16,85mm thickness being a letdown.

Omega Speedmaster Dark Side of The Moon Apollo 8

Omega has unveiled, four years after launching the first-ever Apollo 8 that you’ll find in this guide, a new edition of the timepiece. When upgrading the Dark Side of The Moon Apollo 8, the brand preserved the 2018 model’s core specs while adding the latest technological advancements.

The story of the Apollo 8 mission, in brief

In 1968, the Apollo 8 mission’s crew were the first to orbit the Moon; thus, 2018 marked the fiftieth anniversary of that mission. Borman, Lovell Jr. and Anders were the first Apollo astronauts to leave the Earth’s orbit and discover the dark side of the Moon.

The Apollo 8 mission was the latest ahead of the legendary Apollo 11. It stands as the ultimate test in preparation for the lunar module assembly and final test.

The new Dark Side of The Moon Apollo 8

As mentioned, many are the changes. Most are subtle since Omega has not radically changed the original model, whose popularity has grown since it hit the market.

The case

Case size and proportions are unchanged; the case measures 44.25 mm across. When wearing the original model in 2018, we found it’s not hefty thanks to lightness and black livery. Also, the thickness stops at an acceptable 13.00 mm.

The case comes in three parts (mid part, bezel, and case back), and the tachymetric scale is filled with white “Grand Feu” enamel. Omega keeps extending enameling to its flagship models, as recently exemplified by Super Racing, for instance. You’ll spot that the “Tachymeter” inscription is now white, replacing the original yellow one.

The dial

It’s all about laser ablation, a process adopted on bridges and main plates. Omega claims the process is more refined than the previous model, and enamelling is standard on various components.

The central chronograph seconds hand is yellow-enameled. A running seconds hand comes in the shape of Saturn V, the rocket that took off in 1968. It comes in lacquered grade 5 titanium.

The Dark Side of The Moon Apollo 8 features the Co-Axial Master Chronometer caliber 3869

Here is the most exciting upgrade from a technical perspective, and it aligns the new Apollo 8 with the current Moonwatch production. The latest generation movement replaces the 1869, offering superior lunar surface detailing while ensuring complete resistance to magnetic fields.

All in all, the product upgrade is relevant as it is the price. At launch, the new Speedmaster Dark Side of the Moon retails for €15,900.

Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch white lacquered dial

Announced through a short teaser on social media, the new Moonwatch white lacquered dial has been long-awaited since first spotted on Daniel Craig’s wrist. It happened during the Planet Omega exhibition in New York. The countdown had begun, and the new Omega Speedmaster with a white dial landed.

The Moonwatch White’s sources of inspiration

For the 2024 Moonwatch collection, designers drew inspiration from the Moonwatch’s rich heritage. The new Speedmaster Moonwatch with a white dial celebrates the Alaska 1 project launched in collaboration with NASA. It brings back in stock a white Moonwatch since the highly sought-after “albino” Speedmaster Moonwatch hit the scene many years ago.

A white lacquered dial turns the Moonwatch into a more exclusive model with the exact technical specifications.

A red Speedmaster wording contrasts the white dial, paying tribute to the Moonwatch Alaska’s protective case as much as to the Apollo program’s astronauts. They began showcasing their grades on their suits in 1970.

Overall features and launch price list

That said, the new model confirms the ordinary Moonwatch’s technical package and couldn’t be any different. The case measures 42 mm across and 13.2 mm in thickness, with a 20 mm distance between the lugs. Once entirely wound, the hand-wound Master Chronometer-certified calibre 3861 runs for at least 60 hours of autonomy.

Indexes and hands are blackened out and filled with white Super-LumiNova®. As of March 2024, the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch White Lacquered Dial retails for 9,100 Euros.

Omega Speedmaster Porsche Club of America

Among the most appealing and least-known models is the Omega Speedmaster PCA, which stands for Porsche Club of America. The collaboration between the two brands is unexpected yet well-received.

Chronographs are historically linked to motor racing. Therefore, such an association should be familiar to us.

When Porsche chose Omega

That said, Omega’s partner is nothing short of extraordinary: Porsche. Together, they crafted a 99-piece limited edition model from the Gray Side of the Moon.

Unveiled in 2017, the watch houses the calibre 9300 (not a Master Chronometer certified calibre), which keeps being a beautifully finished movement.

Therefore, the case measures 44.25 mm and is 16.24 mm thick. The dial is stunning; it is made of ceramic titanium with a yellow Speedmaster logo and very much “Speedmaster Racing”. Yellow also covers the hour and minute hands and the small continuous seconds hand at nine o’clock.

The strap is grey and yellow (inner side). Omega applied the official PCA logo to the transparent case back. When it came out, the timepiece cost $12,911.

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Giovanni Di Biase @Horbiter®