Introducing the Credor Locomotive 50th Anniversary watch

Introduction

The relationship between Gérald Genta and Japan was close and closer than expected. The Credor Locomotive summarizes two cultures coming together in a timepiece once commissioned by Seiko to promote their noblest brand: Credor.

Gérald Genta, the “designers’ designer,” invented the luxury sports watch in steel, thus turning around most brands’ businesses. He loved Japan so much that he organized countless trips during the Seventies.

The relationship with the Seiko Group is not breaking news; it has become prominent due to the renewed partnership between Genta’s foundation and Credor.

That said, the original Seiko Credor Locomotive was Genta’s take on the Japanese wristwatch; while Seiko’s technical prowess was excellent, it explored new designs to empower its youngest brand’s identity.

From Seiko Credor Locomotive to Credor Locomotive: the new reference GCCR999

The term “Locomotive” seems ironic to a country as technologically advanced in high-speed train engineering. As the name suggests, the watch aimed to push Credor’s ambitions as a watchmaker when it was released in 1979.

The quartz era was plummeting, and so was the Japanese industry’s desire to rule the watch industry forever. Nonetheless, the Seiko Credor Locomotive housed a quartz calibre, a technology often found across Credor products back then, to ensure a slim profile and the best accuracy.

The collaboration with Gérald Genta proves Credor’s less constrained approach to design compared to other brands from the Group, especially Grand Seiko, whose “Grammar of Design” sets specific rules and guidelines. In contrast, Credor’s approach to design is holistic, building on exquisite mechanical movements like the Spring Drive ones.

Look at the sleek Kuon collection, which paved the way for the contemporary luxury sports watch. Coming along is a quintessentially Heritage wristwatch like the Credor Locomotive GCCR999. The designers revisited the original drawings to reproduce the Locomotive as faithfully as possible, with no Seiko logo, abiding by the rules of the “Grammar of Genta.”

The brand’s 50th-anniversary model pays homage to Genta’s work but builds on the Group’s catalogue of mechanical movements. We will talk about that later.

Hexagonal case and functional screws

The hexagon replaces the well-known octagon while six functional screws, all pointing towards the dial’s centre, secure the bezel to the case. You can spot a Royal Oak feel to it; there is nothing to be shocked about. The original formula is among the most recognizable in the history of watchmaking, and its hexagonal take is Genta’s, sketched by him. Therefore, it is exclusive to Credor. Otherwise, it is like claiming that Gérald Genta has copied himself, which sounds ridiculous.

One of the two is rooted in our imagination, and the other is authoritative in its regard, but it is different and belongs to a niche since Credor’s distribution is restricted to Asia and the US.

High-intensity titanium and golden size

The case and bracelet are “high-intensity titanium,” Seiko’s patented alloy that minimizes titanium alloys’ letdowns by improving their hardness and scratch resistance.

Both are finally brushed and mirror-polished by Credor master watchmakers. Accordingly, the bracelet houses tiny hexagonal links connecting one H-shaped link to the nearest one, whose mirror-polished edges stand out. In brief, it is very much Genta. The bracelet ends with a folding buckle with two safety buttons and the Credor logo.

It is not integrated into the case, thus separating it from its Swiss-made counterparts. The bracelet connects to the case via a mid-link attachment. Overall, this is a distinctive, disruptive, awkward-to-someone design. Hovering over the dial, you will spot a multi-ray finish machined by a specific tool capable of precisely drawing 1,600 lines.

The date window is wide, surrounded by a frame and highly visible, like on the 1979 Seiko Credor Locomotive. Specs-wise, the case measures 38.8mm across and 8.9mm in thickness, ticking all the golden rule’s boxes. The Credor Locomotive GCCCR999 is an ultra-flat luxury sports watch with up to 100 m water resistance.

The calibre CR01

Credor claims they have developed a new calibre, coded as CR01. We have no additional information about it except that it is self-winding, runs at 4 Hertz, and has a 45-hour power reserve. According to official statements, it is exclusive to the new Locomotive.

However, according to the picture, it resembles some high-end Seiko movements. Let us wait for more information before releasing our final verdict on this new mechanical movement.

Final thoughts

The Credor Locomotive GCCCR999 will hit the market in August as a 300-piece limited edition model, priced at 14,000 euros and available exclusively at Grand Seiko boutiques. We won’t know if it opens to Credor’s official European debut, but we hope so.

Whether you love it or not, it belongs to the brand’s heritage, and Credor stands as Seiko’s premium luxury brand. Judging by how Seiko carefully distributes it across the global markets, it is a standout watchmaker for a select few.

The nod to Genta is a strategy to strengthen the brand’s awareness, especially among the European audience. While the original Locomotive propelled the young, unknown Credor brand, the contemporary model plays a new role, building on a 50-year-long pedigree and Genta’s design to attract connoisseurs.

Credor’s technical choice surprised us. They might have gone for the splendid ultra-flat Spring Drive calibre housing the Kuon. Despite being hand-wound, it is more refined than the CR01 and might more easily justify the almost 15k euro threshold.

(Photo credit: Credor)

Giovanni Maria Di Biase @Horbiter®