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During the recently broadcasted media-press Omega Days 2022 event, the brand has released a series of terrific new models, proving they are further moving upmarket while covering every product category with range extensions and breakthrough watches. There are plenty of new Omega watches added to virtually any collection this year. As we approach Watches and Wonders, I’m equally eager to discover what Omega‘s competitors will release and which timepieces industry experts and consumers will compare the 2022 new Omega watches against.
The breakthrough Omega Ultra Deep
Some call it “Omega Seamaster Ultra Deep”; others add “Planet Ocean”; it simply is the 2022 Omega Ultra Deep and offers one-of-a-kind features to set it apart from any other Seamaster or Seamaster Planet Ocean released so far.
Ultra Deep is a short and bold name summarizing Omega watches‘ next big thing among super professional diving watches, the outcome of the brand’s “skunkworks” that raises the bar in this class of products to such an extent to outperform the Seiko Group and Rolex, in one go.
The Ultra Deep project also proves how Omega listens to watch aficionados and, case in point, professional divers. While abiding by the rules of the ISO 6425 standard is no headline news in the industry any longer, designing a helium-proof case capable of withstanding the pressure at 6000 meters below the sea level is quite a thing and ranks the brand as the pole sitter in the never-ending race for conquering the Ocean depths.
Technical features (and some physics), in short.
The 45,5mm large and 18mm thick case mimics its direct competitor, the Rolex Deepsea, but outperforms the competition in specs and, primarily, engineering. As stated above, the steel (or titanium) case is so hermetic to be fully helium-proof. The standard collection also welcomes O–Megasteel, the first-ever brand’s proprietary steel.
From a mechanical properties perspective, a 6000-meter water-resistant watch can withstand up to 600 bar of pressure or 60 MN per square meter static load. A standard 316L or 904L test piece’s yield point is 220 MPa on average in the benchmark. According to Omega official sources, the O–Megasteel yield point is more than twice as much, at 560 MPa. The PREN index is far more perceivable in the long term and daily use from a consumer’s standpoint. Again, according to Omega, O–Megasteel‘s PREN index is several tens of per cent higher than 316L‘s compared to Seiko‘s Ever Brilliant Steel and 904L, which is the only standardized steel in the industry so far.
The collection’s hero is – without a doubt – the Grade 5 titanium model reissuing the prototype tested during Victor Vescovo’s expedition to the bottom of the Mariana Trench. Titanium ensures the big hefty case an unmatched lightness compared to its full steel siblings. Please consider that the full steel Ultra Deep weighs more than 200 g, whereas a titanium Ultra Deep is equally much lighter and a halo product. However, no material can compare the new steel’s shine and premium feel. You might opt for steel on rubber and save some weight as an option.
Ultra Deep: first thoughts
Kudos to Omega for breaking the rules and investing considerable resources into a niche yet flagship product, the outcomes being O–Megasteel and a long list of patents regarding the case, glass and gaskets design, which is specific to this collection.
My favorite is the Ultra Deep in Orange; it’s the ultimate luxury tool watch and quintessentially Omega; in contrast, the smoked blue dial looks too similar to the Deepsea and dilutes the product’s technical leadership. The Omega Ultra Deep costs 12,000 Euros approximate. It’s the most expensive “Seamaster” ever, but you get much (technological) bang for the bucks, and the build quality is supreme.
The Omega Seamaster Diver 300M green dial
Here is a range extender, though with some nice touch to it. The first-ever Seamaster Diver 300M Green Edition keeps enlarging a product range overhauled in 2018. The green ceramic bezel comes with a Grand Feu enamel white diving scale; Grand Feu is usually reserved for classic timepieces. I can’t wait to see how it looks in the metal and compare it against the ordinary model.
The Diver 300M Green retains its 42 mm wide and 13,56 mm thick case in terms of product specs. Like it or not, a Seamaster Diver 300M is the most elegant (and wearable) premium professional diver whose hallmark case and bracelet design are easily recognizable. Unfortunately, it is not as affordable as once, anymore. However, its 5,800 euros sticker price (steel on steel) still is reasonable across Omega‘s product portfolio.
The Omega Speedmaster 57 calibre 9906
The new Speedmaster 57 is no less relevant than the Ultra Deep and far more significant to the brand’s bottom line. While the former is about heftiness, outstanding performances and muscular design, the new hand-wound Speedy 57′ offering is an ode to sleekness and sophistication.
While a one-to-one 321-powered CK 2915 reissue (Canopus Gold excluded) is not in the roadmap, Omega has tirelessly improved the two-counter layout by revisiting the formula inside and out and slimming down the case size.
Game changer: the Omega 9906 movement
The new Speedmaster 57 houses the handsome Omega hand-wound calibre 9906, whose no-date edition equips the Omega Chronoscope introduced last year. The 9906 adds, therefore, the date window and stands out for the exposed one-piece bridge entirely decorated with Côtes de Arabesque.
The calibre feels like a Swiss decorated yet vaguely inspired Saxon mechanical movement (the three-quarter bridge). It’s large and measures just 6,4 mm in thickness, making the new Omega Speedmaster 57 measure less than 13 mm, hence thinner than a Moonwatch 3861!
Refinement all around
The case comes in a close to 40 mils size; the dial preserves the two-register easy to read layout, which includes Chrono hours and minutes at three. As long as the chronograph keeps running, this layout allows the measurement of a second-time zone. Nonetheless, I would have expected a longer power reserve.
The 2022 Omega Speedmaster ’57: first thoughts
Remove the date window, and you’ll get a superb option to a classic Moonwatch and a more affordable alternative to an Omega 321. Reducing the case width from 41,5 to 40,5 mm and adopting the Apollo 11 inspired bracelet make it a terrific buying option.
Also, the 9906 is a column-wheel operated movement; here is why the sticker price stops at around 10,000 Euros. You can opt for a set of coloured dials alongside the main one adopting vintage Super–Luminova® and a sandwich dial for the first time.
It looks bizarre, but I hardly understand why the new models offer 50 meters of water resistance instead of 100 meters, as with the outgoing models.
Holy Grail: the new Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonshine Gold
After their official unveiling, the world watch community has seen Omega supporters against Rolex supporters, the latter claiming they both look too similar to a Gold Daytona. While it is no surprise that Omega is challenging Rolex, either a Daytona or a Moonwatch boast such different pedigree, history, and technical specifications that I don’t get this kind of debate.
The two new Moonwatch Omega are the second Moonshine Gold iteration following the gold Apollo 11 staggering success, and add the sobriety the Limited Edition Apollo 11 model was somewhat missing.
Compared to the Sedna Gold variants, green and black inlays on the bezel come in ceramics. On the green Moonwatch, the PVD-treated dial smoothens the shining yellow Gold, while the other model’s dial is in Moonshine Gold.
The 2022 Omega Speedmaster Moonwatch Moonshine Gold: early thoughts
With the new Moonwatch Moonshine Gold, the collection’s premium offering is now complete. You can now order a 3861 in Sedna or Moonshine Gold. I’ll pick, no doubt, the green Moonwatch on a leather strap over the integrated rubber strap Moonwatch Moonshine Gold “Panda”. An integrated rubber strap is no Moonwatch by all means. Prices start at € 26,200 for the Green Moonwatch on a leather strap and stop at € 38,900 for the Moonwatch Moonshine Gold Panda with the bracelet.
(Photo credit: Horbiter®, Omega Watches)
Gaetano C @Horbiter®
