Our first thoughts on the new King Seiko Vanac

Intro

Once, the Seiko diving watch collection took centre stage among the brand’s novelties: Sumo, Turtle, Shogun, and Marinemaster were the most popular monikers and often extended their presence beyond the market segment they were purposely engineered for.

Forget that scenario; it is down the memory line. Prospex watches have become so sophisticated they can easily hold a multi-purpose role around scuba or professional diving. Yet, the product mix has changed to make Seiko a tough-to-compete-against-watch brand in multiple product categories.

In brief, while Prospex watches rose to new heights, so did Seiko’s premium King Seiko collection, whose success has helped the brand gain growing respect in a territory once dominated by their Swiss competitors.

Still, one piece of the puzzle was missing. When every press media representative thought no further additions were underway, Seiko unexpectedly raised the bar, first with the handsome ultra-thin KS 1969 sub-collection and now with its take on the ubiquitous sports watch on an integrated bracelet: the King Seiko Vanac.

Vintage pedigree, avant-garde vision

While everything about King Seiko before the 2025 Vanac’s introduction pays homage to the brand’s pedigree, the Vanac is an ode to the future of the collection (and the brand).

You can spot traces of the original range produced between 1972 and 1974, but the 2025 Vanac is a different story and a white-paper-based project, inside and out.

Here is a contemporary collection requiring Seiko’s best efforts in design and engineering, and the official launch in 2025 Q1 is no coincidence.

Else said: the collection was probably on its mark to be revealed by the end of last year, but the brand has postponed its launch to avoid any overlap with the first 100 years’ celebration models. Such iteration also proves King Seiko is a class apart, one step above everything that is “King Seiko – King”.

A flawless execution

The outcome is a bold watch. A hexagonal case shape combines multiple surfaces where flat polished and brushed parts cross their paths to create ultra-sharp edges, like a Katana mixing up with a Shuriken.

Every line is quintessentially Japanese and aims to prove a master craftsman’s artistry in shaping metal. It’s a love-it-or-hate-it affair, but every part fits in flawlessly.

Seiko avoided the now-popular Genta-inspired design, which is often seen across the “midfield” watch business. Instead, I might recall an original Octo design approach.

Volumes stand out on the curved case side, as does the grooved oversized winding crown, which serves as a design statement first and foremost.

The build features a mid-body with straight, integrated lugs measuring 41.0 mm in diameter and 14.3 mm thick, whose boldness continues with the nicely executed integrated bracelet. To top things off, a domed sapphire glass further extends the overall thickness of the watch.

The horizontally patterned dial and its vintage colour palette tone down a powerful silhouette. Topped by a polygonal ring with gold or rhodium-plated traits, it provides a perceivable seventies touch, empowered by a V for Vanac at twelve as (too) much as on the central second’s hand.

Seiko has released its most refined and robust steel bracelet ever. Not only does it extend the polished-to-brushed game, but it also visually slims down the case, ending up with a butterfly folding clasp. It also proves that a Vanac is not a watch for small wrists, despite aspiring to sell globally.

Seiko’s new 8L45 caliber

A new mechanical movement is in the house, and that’s the 8L45, whose specs confirm how relevant Vanac is to Seiko’s strategy.

A quick comparison with the tried-and-tested 8L35 suggests it is assembled like its sibling at the Shizukuishi Studio in Morioka.

According to the specs, it houses 35 jewels instead of 26 and guarantees a 72-hour maximum power reserve, on par with a 9S65 movement.

Boasting a declared accuracy of +10 to -5 seconds per day (thus outperforming an 8L35’s +15 to -10 seconds per day), the 8L45 sets as the most precise Seiko movement available.

We assume it will soon replace any 8L35-powered watch like the 300m Marinemaster; it already houses the fresh new Marinemaster 600 meters 60^th Anniversary diving watch.

Final thoughts

The King Seiko Vanac will launch in July as a five-variant collection. Three options with a purple, blue, or ivory dial will pair with two limited edition offerings. I foresee the blue one being the collection’s top seller.

Regarding the limited edition models, the first is an option with a brown “mahogany” dial depicting Tokyo’s dawn, and the next is an ice-dial boutique-only edition.

Who is a Vanac meant for? It is for design-minded watch fans who pay attention to perceived quality and sturdy build; here are the main assets.

Vanac has a strong presence and a list of details and finishes above the €3,400 suggested list price geared towards big wrists.

We’ll add two comments. First, we expect Seiko to release a smaller and thinner King Seiko Vanac to bring the collection to its full potential, but it needs to adopt the slimmer 6L movement family.

Next is how a Vanac might evolve to house further mechanical complications: I hope Seiko will soon consider a Vanac chronograph with integrated, hidden push buttons.

(Photo credit: Seiko)

Giovanni Maria Di Biase @Horbiter®