After introducing some examples of aftermarket watch straps, let’s look at how a watch clasp is designed, the technical solutions available and their historical background. The various options of a watch strap explain a brand’s target audience and its mission. The solutions currently available are standardized.
A watch strap has either functional and design attributes: we expect it to be equally comfortable, refined and safe, despite some failing when it comes to comfort, especially.
Therefore, our guide aims to list the most popular watch clasps and highlight pros and cons, according to my experience, on top. I believe most people are familiar with the different kinds of watch clasps and bracelets on offer.
The folding clasp. How it works and who invented it.
The folding watch clasp is by far the most common and is available on any type, and any priced watch, either on a metal (e.g. steel, gold, platinum), ceramic, composite-made bracelet or whatsoever material. You can also find it paired with a leather or rubber strap.
Aesthetically, a folding watch clasp showcases the brand’s logo and covers a mechanism of rotating blades that, once coupled, ensure your timepiece safely wraps around your wrist.
Louis Cartier invented and patented the tilting watch clasp in 1910, so it is no coincidence that Cartier crafts exquisite watch clasps on bracelets, leather and rubber strap, a great example being its multi-purpose Santos de Cartier.
A tilting watch clasp’s main advantage is that once the bracelet is adjusted to your wrist’s size (by additionally removing or adding links), you won’t need to change it any further. The tilting watch clasp’s closure often includes a micro-regulation mechanism to fine-adjust it; case in point, the Big Pilot’s Watch 43 (photo below).
The most common tilting watch clasp is asymmetrical and comes, as specified, with a three-part mechanism, i.e. two inner blades and the clasp itself. Some options include an additional locking system to prevent the watch from inadvertently opening.
The best examples come from Rolex and its Glidelock device or Seiko, which offers a locking metal safety band on its diving watches. Omega adopts a different solution instead, as seen on the Omega Moonwatch or Seamaster; two tiny safety buttons placed on opposite sides of the watch clasp unlock it, thus preventing any unwanted clasp opening.
Other examples of tilting clasps, yet with no safety pushers, come from Breitling, which adopts such a solution in conjunction with leather straps.
The main advantage of choosing a tilting watch clasp is usability; anyone can secure a watch to their wrist with a single touch.
The Rolex watch clasps are also paired to rubber, as with the patented Oysterflex rubber strap, thus representing a very comfortable take on the tilting watch clasp. Whatever your option, Rolex prides itself on crafting some of the most comfortable and safe watch clasps.
When paired with a leather strap, the tilting clasp is hardly the most comfortable option, and you usually end up marking your wrist.
Furthermore, if the brand’s designers didn’t provide any push-release buttons, you can barely secure the watch onto your wrist; standard sports or daily activity might end up loosening the closure and result in the timepiece’s clasp opening under any unwanted shock. It’s an option I won’t recommend. A tilting clasp’s advantages are that the watch won’t pop up even when the clip opens.
The hidden folding clasp and the butterfly clasp.
The previously introduced tilting watch clasp comes either as a standard or a butterfly-designed clasp. The butterfly watch clasp is an asymmetrical two-part clasp whose halves unfold like a butterfly’s wings; you’ll therefore take two steps to secure the watch to the wrist fully.
The butterfly watch clasp comes in two options; the simplest is what you find on a Cartier Panthère, for instance, where you can close one end or the other first. Once the bracelet is fastened, the folding butterfly clasp mechanism is entirely hidden.
Another excellent example of an elegantly hidden clasp comes with the Bulgari Octo Finissimo. Elsewhere, here is the case of the Royal Oak Ultra-Thin, you won’t close the butterfly clasp unless you first fold and secure the part without the brand’s logo.
Same story with the newly released Parmigiani Tonda PF (photo on top). A standard hidden watch clasp comes with no butterfly mechanism, as exemplified by Rolex‘s President bracelet, whose seamless design only includes the crown logo to help snap the watch off your wrist.
Some brands pair the butterfly clasp with a leather strap, thus including a pin buckle; therefore, you first need to identify the pin’s position onto the strap before tilting to the two parts and follow a “trial and error” process before finally making sure strap and clasp secure the watch.
High-end brands like Patek and Breguet often adopt this layout, which is much premium-luxury as the brand’s logo is standing out against the leather strap, as seen on most Pateks and Breguet watches, whose “Calatrava cross” or Breguet‘s “B” logo pleasantly complement the folding clasp.
This option is as aesthetically pleasing as it is tedious and time-consuming; in as-new condition, the leather strap is usually so stiff that you won’t easily find the proper adjustment. Once found, you’ll end up with the timepiece not comfortably tapering the wrist as you’d expect.
The pin buckle (or tang buckle)
The pin buckle is the most straightforward, and it’s rapidly becoming trendy once again, either on classic or sports watches with no bracelet.
It essentially works like a small belt and keeps being the best way to fasten a wristwatch, even more so when the timepiece comes with an alligator strap, whose stiffness is outrageous, or when you’re opting for ultra-thin watches like the Piaget Altiplano, for instance.
It is becoming more and more popular on most soft leather straps equipped watches, too; a great example is the Longines Avigation BigEye in titanium.
It is easy to manage and won’t require any additional adjustment and the option to go on any classic or vintage-inspired timepiece; be careful when opening the pin buckle to avoid the watch popping out of your wrist. Always go for a pin buckle as long as your next watch won’t require a bracelet; You won’t regret it.
The watch strap on a Milanese mesh bracelet
Contrary to popular beliefs, the Milanese mesh bracelet originally appeared in the United States in 1925 and was conceived by CharlesR.Tost for Hadley. It was pretty popular in the twentieth century’s first half and throughout the seventies. In recent years it spread out across mid-range timepieces.
Among its pros, I’ll list lightness and how it tapers the wrist; the mesh bracelet adopts a sliding part end on one side and a kind of hook-shaped clasp on the opposite end. Once locked in the chosen position, push the clasp, and you’ll fasten the watch onto your wrist. A remarkable example comes from the Omega Seamaster Bond Edition whose comfort is top-notch, thanks to a flat designed titanium bracelet.
The Velcro strap
The Velcro watch strap, in premium-luxury watchmaking, appeared in the nineties when Panerai offered their Luminor Marina and Luminor Submersible with an available Velcro strap as an option. Over the years, the Velcro strap has grown in popularity.
Here is the case of the collectable Speedmaster Moonwatch Alaska Project Limited Edition. Without a doubt, Omega took inspiration from Alaska‘s velcro strap when designing the new NASA Velcro for the Moonwatch‘s owners community.
The Velcro strap is easy to wear and a great option if you’re looking to preserve the watch’s bracelet. Watch brands are extending their OEM Velcro straps offering, and the Omega‘s one is a fantastic addition if you own one or more Speedies. Please consider that the Velcros performance fades with time; it’s something to consider when buying a new strap, although my experience regards cheap aftermarket solutions.
Final thoughts
There is no perfect watch strap nor watch buckle; it all depends on what you’re looking for and what’s your next watch. My top choice is the pin buckle; if you’re buying a full-steel watch, the folding watch clasp is mandatory, but I’ll always pick a butterfly folding clasp.
There are then two scenarios: should you opt for a button or no button clasp? I’ll opt for no buttons, no doubt; when choosing an ultra-flat, you’re offered additional safety in the second case; yet you’re not getting the sleekest option you’ll need when paired to an elegant, no-frills, ultra-thin watch.
(Photo credit: Horbiter®)
Gaetano C @Horbiter®
In this article:
Strap
A leather, rubber or other material band that secures the watch to the wearer's wrist.
Ceramic
Widely used for crafting a watch case and, in recent years, also for the bezels of diving watches and dials. Obtained from zirconia powder (ZrO2), ceramic offers superior scratch resistance…
Case
It encases the mechanical movement and is crafted in one or more parts. It can also be a single piece, as with some professional diving watches, or made of unconventional…
Crown
Placed on the case side, it winds the mainspring. When pulled out, it also sets the time and the date. A screw-down crown increases water resistance and protects the movement…
