In 2022, Longines gathered the media press to Palazzo Parigi in Milan to reveal the forthcoming new products, which include a GMT watch based on the Spirit collection. Thus, the Longines Spirit Zulu Time collection and a relevant chapter of Longines’ heritage surfaced. Back then, we also sat down with Giuseppe Miccio, Head of Product Development, who explained the project deliverables from a technical and aesthetic perspective.
Over the past three years, the brand has extended the range by adding new iterations to answer the community’s requests; for instance, they introduced a 39 mm case model in 2023 and the all-titanium model in 2024, whose ceramicbezel features a first-ever two-colour inlay to split day and night hours.
2025 marks the Spirit Zulu Time’s centenary, and since it all started in 1925 with the first-ever GMT wristwatch, we look forward to new additions in 2026 and beyond.
1925 – 2025: from pocket watches to onboard instruments, and wristwatches
What does the Spirit Zulu Time 1925 add to the collection? First, please allow me to rewind a century-old history quickly, some landmark models and historical events that fostered such an unparalleled legacy. While 1925 marks Longines’ leadership among GMT or dual-time wristwatches, the truth is that the GMT watch’s development process began beforehand.
1908 Longines unveiled the Zulu Time’s forerunner among pocket watches when they released the so-called “Turkish Watches.” Several GMT models surfaced throughout the two world wars, including the 1930s Weems and multiple in-flight instruments, all featuring dual hour and minute displays.
The Longines Spirit Zulu Time 1925
For their commemorative edition, Longines picked their golden-size Spirit Zulu Time, measuring 39.0 mm across and 13.5 mm in thickness; indeed, this is one of the sleekest three-timezone GMT watches. Thanks to a sturdy build and a large screwed-down crown, it is engineered to withstand up to 10 bars of water pressure safely.
Designers improved the base architecture while preserving the traits and sources of inspiration that had defined Spirit Zulu Time’s identity since day one.
Head to head with a standard model: what’s new?
Standing out is the unexpected combination of a steel case and a monochrome bezel, crafted from a steel piece covered with a rose gold cap. The assembly technique is nowhere near the gold plating or any PVD treatment process since the ring on top measures at least 200 microns, i.e. ten times as thick, on average, as the treatments mentioned before.
The colour turns towards a copper-bronze one and mimics the copper-made strip that marks the Prime Meridian along the Greenwich Royal Observatory. A secret, tiny 1925-2025 wording appears at six. It is hard to spot, unless you go up close with a magnifying glass.
Flip the watch over, and you’ll discover additional traits. First, a see-through glass reveals a customised L844.4 calibre with 5N PVD rose gold decorated winding mass and depicts a planisphere and the Prime Meridian. Not only does it look charming, but it pairs well with the finish found on the bezel.
It powers a latest-gen, tried-and-tested calibre that ensures the watch is Chronometer Certified, far exceeding the requirements set by the ISO 764 standard to withstand magnetic fields. At 3.5 Hertz, the movement runs for three days when fully wound.
Touch and feel
Since we first tested a Longines Spirit watch, we have praised its stunning perceived quality. The build quality of the case and bracelet is remarkable, as is the machining and assembly of the parts, the brushed-to-polished crown treatment, and the embossed logo on top.
A Spirit Zulu Time 1925 raises the bar, proving Longines’ commitment to unstoppably upscale and improve its products. The watch was engineered to provide a centre of gravity and lugs-to-bracelet proportions to help it wrap around your wrist firmly and smoothly.
Final thoughts
A Zulu Time 1925 won’t add any major technical upgrade compared to any ordinary model; yet, it builds upon that experience by adding fine details to make it less industrial-looking and more vintage-feeling instead. The ceramic inlay is replaced by a classic, bi-material ring, drawing inspiration from a 70s “ghost” aged one, whose numbers look somewhat hidden. Here is a more romantic take that was still missing.
The user experience confirms what you perceive: a no-gap-against-the-case bi-directional rotating bezel ensures 24 distinct clicks and is easy to grasp despite its thinness, thanks to enhanced grooves. A quick release mechanism lets you swap the bracelet at the push of a button, and you can opt for an OEM nylon strap with a beautifully designed pin buckle and the Longines logo on top.
However, we found an area for improvement: a more extended folding clasp would help further secure the watch onto the wrist despite its reasonable weight of 143 grams. Also, I’d add a rubber strap as quickly as possible; being a 10-bar sports GMT watch, it would be more than welcome with the summer season approaching rapidly.
(Photo credit: Horbiter®)
Giovanni Maria Di Biase @Horbiter®
In this article:
GMT
It is the acronym for Greenwich Mean Time and identifies a complication capable of displaying two or more time zones on the dial. The complication usually couples a 24-hour rotating…
Ceramic
Widely used for crafting a watch case and, in recent years, also for the bezels of diving watches and dials. Obtained from zirconia powder (ZrO2), ceramic offers superior scratch resistance…
Case
It encases the mechanical movement and is crafted in one or more parts. It can also be a single piece, as with some professional diving watches, or made of unconventional…
Bezel
The bezel is particularly useful on diving watches, allowing you to check dive times. In this case, it unidirectionally rotates and usually comes in two parts: a metal (or ceramic,…
Crown
Placed on the case side, it winds the mainspring. When pulled out, it also sets the time and the date. A screw-down crown increases water resistance and protects the movement…
Calibre
A calibre is the type of watch movement encased in an assigned timepiece. Its name is usually associated with the manufacturer's name and a standard code, e.g., ETA 2824.
Chronometer
An instrument for measuring time very accurately. For any watch to be called a chronometer, it must meet the standards set by the C.O.S.C. (Contrôle Officiel Suisse des Chronomètres).
Strap
A leather, rubber or other material band that secures the watch to the wearer's wrist.
Since its launch, Spirit Zulu Time has evolved in size and materials while retaining Spirit’s pedigree and the pros listed in the article. The celebration model introduces additional details, which do not simply include a rose gold premium treatment but also top-class engineering. We would have opted for a rose gold winding mass, but we understand that the current choice minimises the fine-tuning process and additional costs, which might otherwise affect the retail price. In brief, Spirit Zulu Time 1925 confirms that the project is sturdy and well-executed while adding details to attract a more discerning watch enthusiast.
