The Patek Philippe Nautilus: history, models, evolution

The Patek Philippe Nautilus is the luxury sports watch par excellence and a timepiece whose lure far exceeds the watchmaking business; it’s a style icon and a piece to be handed down from one generation to another, as claimed by the brand’s ad campaign. The original Patek Nautilus dates back to 1976 and belongs to a flourishing decade in fashion and design, paired with an unstoppable evolution from analogue to digital technology and relevant political and social changes across the globe.

The Nautilus was not the first of its kind; it followed up another iconic wristwatch, the Royal Oak by Audemars Piguet, launched in 1972; yet the Nautilus is equally attractive – if not more – than its fiercest Swiss competitor. Gèrald Genta designed both watches, the man behind the contemporary luxury sports watch with integrated bracelets.

Patek’s Nautilus is the ultimate luxury sports watch in steel thanks to its screwed-down crown-equipped case and water resistance of 120 meters, making it an all-rounder and a piece of watchmaking to wear anywhere.

Also, it turned steel into something as valuable as precious materials, at least by looking at its market price, whose bubble recently exploded as soon as speculation left the industry. As this article is being published, it seems bizarre that a new Nautilus has just replaced its long-established and highly sought-after model.

So far, Patek Philippe has recently issued a new Nautilus as an exclusive white gold model. According to the first rumours, we won’t see a renovated model in steel. “The King is dead, long live the King!” the French motto used to say. As much as Patek Philippe is a reference for its unparalleled Haute Horlogerie complications, the Nautilus remains a reference model and new collectors’ trigger. We can hardly believe this will change anytime soon; the brand’s just trying to avoid polarization towards this collection.

Patek Philippe price list

Here is the Patek Nautilus price list (series 5) updated to January 2023:

• Patek Nautilus 5811/1G-001: 70.350 €
• Patek Nautilus 5712G-001: 53.660 €
• Patek Nautilus 5712R-001: 53.660 €
• Patek Nautilus 5712/1A-001: 49.130 €
• Patek Nautilus 5712/1R-001: 83.470 €
• Patek Nautilus 5726A-001: 49.490 €
• Patek Nautilus 5726/1A-001: 54.850 €
• Patek Nautilus 5980R-001: 73.930 €
• Patek Nautilus 5980/1AR-001: 76.310 €
• Patek Nautilus 5980/1R-001: 106.120 €
• Patek Nautilus 5990/1A-011: 69.160 €
• Patek Nautilus 5990/1R-001: 115.660 €
• Patek Nautilus 5740/1G-001: 146.670 €

The Patek Nautilus Jumbo 3700 (1976 – 1990)

The model pictured at the beginning of the article is the first-ever advertisement launched by Patek Philippe to promote the original Nautilus, the reference 3700. What makes these promotional campaigns, and following ones as the collection has expanded is purity and elegance you can hardly find today.

Those days were marked by advancements in design and technology whose legacy lives today; think about car designers like Gandini, Bertone, and Pininfarina, for instance. Back then, the Nautilus was a breakthrough, fostering mechanical watchmaking’s renaissance as the quartz age was going to an end, thus making Europe and the Swiss Made great again.

The Jumbo 3700 reference set a new standard; the porthole case shape with two hands exudes unparalleled class; many new brands still refer to the Nautilus as a point of reference, either in design (e.g. the Speake Marin Ripples) and size. The Nautilus 3700 Jumbo and the Royal Oak drew inspiration from the marine world; while the Royal Oak mimics a diver’s screwed helmet, the Nautilus is inspired by a porthole.

Unlike the Royal Oak, which looks sportier than a Nautilus, the latter holds no visible screws; the four crews locking the bezel to the case body are placed on two “ears” fastened on opposite sides of the case, thus protecting the winding crown on the right side. The design is clean, and a screw-down crown gives you peace of mind when swimming. Such a porthole design was a challenge back then. No CNC machines nor digital design techniques were available across the industry.

Why Nautilus? And why Jumbo?

The Nautilus is the name of the submarine piloted by Captain Nemo in Jules Verne’s famous novel, Twenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea. Hence, here is a fantastic source of inspiration for one of the most respected timepieces in watchmaking; say “Nautilus”, and most people know you’re talking about the watch from Patek.

The “Jumbo” moniker is a nod to its size – the case measures 42 millimetres across – including the two lateral extensions. However, this is not telling the whole story; most people would claim 42 mm is too much unless you notice most of the Patek Philippe Nautilus’ sleekness is provided by its stunning 7,66 mm thickness, plus the integrated bracelet along with a lovely polished to brushed finish combination. The two-piece case architecture, the dial’s finish, and the supreme comfort once on your wrist made it a watch much ahead of its time when it first appeared.

The Patek calibre 28-255C

The mechanical movement housed in the first-ever Nautilus comes from a partnership between Jaeger-LeCoultre and Patek Philippe. Coded as Patek calibre 28-255C, it is a 12 and 1/2 lines self-winding movement, beats at 2.75 Hz and is 2,45 mm thick. Vacheron Constantin adopted it as calibre 1120 and Audemars Piguet as calibre 2120.

Equipped with a bidirectional winding mass, it runs for 40 hours when fully wound and comes standard with a 21-karat gold peripheral oscillating weight. Its features include a “switching rocker” system to allow bidirectional winding via an additional wheel engaging once the rotor moves counterclockwise. Adopting the free-sprung Gyromax balance wheel with Kif-Ultraflex shock-absorbing system sums up a refined calibre whose precision and robustness are paramount.

The two variants of the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3700: the 3700/1 and the 3700/11

The Nautilus 3700 came in two variants: the first was the Nautilus 3700/1, produced from 1976 to 1981. The second one was the Nautilus 3700/11, produced from 1981 to 1990. Pictured below is a Nautilus 3700/1 sold by Antiquorum in 2019.

The following image shows a Patek Nautilus Jumbo 3700/11 (and one of the first examples, according to the archives, since it dates back to 1981), sold by Barnebys, owner of the image below, in July 2020.

Visually, the differences between the two references are hard to catch, the most significant difference being the bracelet’s width: the original 16mm moved to 14mm. On the original model, note how the words “Patek Philippe” and “Genève” are tiny and not overlapping the horizontal grooves. It is one trait that makes the original model so distinctive and elegant.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800

Considering how much a Patek Nautilus sells today, it is surprising that the watch could have been more successful when it hit the market. It often happens with breakthrough products. Sales of the Patek Nautilus 3700 didn’t grow as expected. As a result, Patek Philippe decided to extend the range to the smaller 37.5 mm reference 3800. The new collection was introduced in 1981, thus marking the original Jumbo’s phase-out.

The new model, known as the Midsize Nautilus 3800, didn’t adopt the 28-255 C calibre but a new one exemplified by the central second’s hand. The calibre 335 SC (Central Seconds) was a less refined 4Hz self-winding movement. It was, therefore, less appreciated due to the absence of the Gyromax balance wheel, for instance.

During its life cycle from 1981 to 2005, the Patek Nautilus 3800 underwent several evolutions aimed at housing more refined calibres, in line with the owner’s expectations and the original 3700 series’ superior refinement. Then, Patek Philippe equipped the 335 calibre SC with a quick date change, and in 1992 the Nautilus finally received a major technical upgrade by housing the 330/134 SC calibre equipped with a Gyromax balance wheel, awarded the Hallmark of Geneva too. In 1997, the 330/194 SC calibre hit the spot; the frequency was reduced to 3 Hz to raise the power reserve to 48 hours. This movement powered the Patek Philippe Nautilus 3800 until 2006, when it was finally phased out.

The picture above shows a second gen Nautilus 3800, equipped with the calibre 330 as seen from the archives’ extract provided by Patek Philippe.

This picture refers to an unusual model instead. It’s the latest generation piece, equipped with a 330/194 SC calibre, a platinum case and a distinctive index-free dial. This piece, whose production dates back to 1999, sold at Phillips auction in 2018 at a hammer price of 212,500 Swiss Francs. It makes you understand why the Patek Philippe Nautilus is so coveted: its special editions dedicated to retailers like Beyer, Gubelin or Tiffany, whose names often appear on the dial. The Nautilus was also produced in different combinations of materials, either in gold or two tones: steel and gold.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus renovation: the reference 5060/SJ and the families 3710, 3711, 3712.

The Nautilus 5060/SJ and the new Aquanaut

The Nautilus reference 5060/SJ debuted in 1996. It means the Nautilus 3700 had already been out of production for six years, while the Nautilus 3800 collection still had ten years of production ahead. The Nautilus 5060/SJ aesthetically creates a bridge with the Nautilus reference 3800/1JA, but it is utterly different.

Should we call it Nautilus or Aquanaut? There’s so much doubt that many vintage watch dealers adopt both names. The Patek Nautilus 5060/SJ marks the birth of the Aquanaut model family, despite appearing to celebrate the Patek Philippe Nautilus’ 20th anniversary.

The aforementioned makes it sought after by collectors and hard to get, too; the case measured 35 mm across; it was in yellow gold and adopted standard lugs. We can also spot a redesigned case with a broader bezel like on current Aquanaut models, whose first official model is the 1997 reference 5060/A.

Inside is the calibre 330/194 SC, hence the movement adopted on the latest generation Nautilus 3800. It is an exciting timepiece since it historically links the Nautilus with the Aquanaut, a transitional model.

The Nautilus 3710 and 3711

The Nautilus reference 3710 brings the 42 mm diameter Jumbo case back, albeit with an addition; the Nautilus 3710 is the first model to adopt power reserve and pair it with Roman numerals that appeared on the 3800 model. The addition of the complication and the asymmetrically-positioned gauge forced designers to move the brand’s logo down on the dial. The indicator has an uncommon feature: it rotates clockwise as the barrel loads up.

The 3711 case continues to adopt a solid back case. The 330 SC IZR calibre – IZR stands for “Indication de Zone de Remontage” (power reserve indicator) – is an evolution of the 330/194 SC, thus running at 3Hz and offering a 48-hour power reserve when fully wound.

The Nautilus 3711 is an evolution of the 3700 model but offers a see-through case back and exclusively comes in white gold and a black dial. The case-back reveals the Patek 315 SC automatic calibre. The Patek 315 central rotor movement is an evolution of the 330, but the former measures 3.22 mm in thickness as opposed to the 315’s 3.50 mm thickness, thanks to repositioning the date disc within the movement.

The reference 3710 was produced from 1998 to 2006, while the Nautilus 3711 was from 2004 to 2006. The latter was – with the new three-part case – the foundation for the glorious Nautilus 5711 model, in production until 2021.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 is the luxury sports watch in steel par excellence, whose primary and fiercest competitor is the reference 15202ST by Audemars Piguet. They dominate the luxury market and are the most wanted luxury sports watches; their market prices are far above retail, but they equally polarize the enthusiasts’ attention. The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711/1A, launched in 2006, adopts the three-part case architecture introduced with reference 3711.

It measures 40 mm along the line from ten to four o’clock but extends the overall width to 42.5 mm compared to the original 42 mm. It’s a detail that is not affecting its unparalleled elegance and wrist presence, thanks to an 8.3 mm thickness. However, the 5711 can compare with the Nautilus 3700 original 7,66 thickness.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus 5711 mainly adopted the 4Hz 324 SC automatic movement during a large part of its life cycle: the first series, from 2006 to 2007, adopted the 315 SC calibre introduced with the 3711. From 2007 to 2019, the Nautilus 5711 housed the Patek Philippe 324 SC movement: runs at 4 Hz, has the new Gyromax balance wheel, and a new wheel profile geometry. Here are some of the improvements coming with this new movement.

The last two years saw the adoption of further evolution in the likes of the Patek calibre 26-330SC, which has introduced the “hacking” function allowing a precise time setting of the watch. The watch’s latest editions included a lovely olive green dial with or without (baguette cut) diamonds on the bezel. Last is the controversial variant with a “Tiffany” dial, marking the end of an era before the 2022 Patek Nautilus reference 5811’s release.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1A-014

As cited above, the Nautilus 5711 final editions included two models, showcasing an unprecedented, elegant olive green dial; both options are steel with or without baguette diamonds on the bezel. Please see them below.

The steel model is solely a green take on the ordinary 5711 and stands as a collector’s piece, whose grey market quotations have skyrocketed.

The Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711/1300A-001

The second reference is even more exciting and is unexpected. The steel bezel has 32 baguette-cut Top Wesselton diamonds offering a slightly trapezoidal geometry.

At launch, the price of this variant was in the €84,000 area, 83,689 Euros sticker price.

The Patek Philippe Ref. 5711 Nautilus Tiffany Blue® Dial

If you’re wondering which Nautilus is the most coveted ever (and also the most expensive), the answer is the Nautilus with Tiffany Blue® dial. In 2021, to celebrate the historic 170-year-long relationship between American jeweller Tiffany & Co. and Patek Philippe, the Swiss brand launched the commemorative edition pictured below:

The “Tiffany Blue®” is not just any Pantone; as the registered trademark ® suggests, it’s universally recognized as “1837 Blue”, where the number identifies Tiffany’s foundation year. Patek Philippe produced 170 pieces, with one piece auctioned by Phillips at a hammer price of over six and a half million dollars.

The return of the Jumbo: the Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G-001

When everyone thought that the Jumbo had gone, Patek Philippe shocked the community in October 2022 by introducing the successor to the Nautilus 5711, the new Nautilus 5811/1G-001 in white gold. The new model is a slight update to the outgone 5711.

Among the main features is the two-piece case, a tribute to the original 3700 model from 1976, and the familiar blue sunray-finished dial, now including a thin border around the date window. The main dimensions also change slightly: the case now measures 41 millimetres, and Patek has also introduced a new lever system to extract the winding stem on the dial side.

The declared thickness totals 8,2 millimetres; the timepiece houses the Patek 26-330 SC calibre. The new Nautilus Ref. 5811/1G-001 retails for 70,350 Euros, but we all believe it is just the dawn of a new era; bear in mind that in 2026 the reference 3700 will celebrate its fiftieth anniversary.

Editorial Team @Horbiter®