Rolex Cellini 2016
The most Oyster-like of the Cellinis
When it comes to Rolex, imagination runs wild towards the various Oyster models; the Submariner, the GMT Master II or the Daytona, but very few people seem to be familiar with the Cellini collection, the real embodiment of the term “understatement” according to Rolex. The same way it happens in the music world, where classic style is constantly evolving into a specialized market for a selected audience, even in the world of watch-making, the formal and balanced rules of classicism are slowly and steadily attracting a clientele who expects nothing else than perfection. This is the exact concept that Rolex, with their new Cellini collection, have perfectly understood and interpreted.
The entire know how that the manufacturer has acquired in over 100 years of history is elegantly summarized in this new collection and is taken to places that are usually not that apt for an Oyster, like a gala evening or the opening night at La Scala in Milan. The three new versions of the Rolex Cellini (Rolex Cellini Time, Rolex Cellini Date and Rolex Cellini Dual Time) exceptionally mirror the manufacturer’s spirit that is made of rules, details and exclusivity. The collection’s name is a tribute to an Italian artist, Benvenuto Cellini, who was born in Florence in 1500 during the so-called Mannerism, when artistic style went hand in hand with the dream of exploring new horizons without losing sight of the perfect harmony of things.
Precious materials like 18-carat-Everose gold (a Rolex patented alloy) and 18-carat-white gold host Rolex’s automatic in-house built calibers that guarantee up to 48 hours of power-reserve and a blue paramagnetic Parachrom balance spring. The Rolex Cellini Time is equipped with the 3132 caliber, the brand opted for the 3165 caliber for their Rolex Cellini Date watch with date and for the 3180 caliber for their Rolex Cellini Dual Time with GMT function. All of the above-mentioned movements boast a precision rate that equals +/- 2 seconds per day that is also guaranteed by the COSC+ certification for Superlative Chronometers (on the entire timepiece), a concept that was re-defined by Rolex in 2015. The watches are guaranteed up to 5 years and, thanks to the winding crown and the screwed case back, all timepieces are water proof up to 50 metres.
The dial of these Rolex Cellini watches measures 39mm, it is perfectly symmetric except on the Rolex Cellini Date – a typical touch of Mannerism – where, artistically speaking, the "Pointer Date" shifts part of its weight to the right sector of the timepiece. The double convexed and fluted bezel perfectly matches the winding crown and the rays-pattern that stems out of the centre of the dial and fills its entire surface (the technical name of this motif is “Rayon flammé de la gloire” and is not present on the Rolex Cellini Time.) The straight lugs sustain the alligator skin strap with a pin buckle that is made of the same material as the case.
With their new Cellini collection, Rolex reiterates their concept of classic timepiece that is based on balance and harmony by adding some new characteristics that have made the Oyster collection recognizable and that make the Cellini series better identifiable among the many classic three-counters and “slightly” complicated watches that exist in the market. There is a touch of originality that is typical of Mannerism; the non-centered date located at 3 o’clock on the Rolex Cellini Date. Rolex, with this new collection, want to make everybody aware of their presence in a territory that is usually Jaeger-LeCoultre’s and Vacheron Constantin’s dominion, by using the best strategy that entails retailing their timepieces at a starting price of 14,150 euro.
In 1928, the Rolex Cellini Prince – the first Rolex Cellini – was equipped with a see-through back case (like the recent 5441/1), something that sounds and looks like a taboo for the current Rolex watches but that we would like to see again. Considering the fact that Rolex’s calibers are all in-house built and that this one of the most appreciated characteristics when it comes to this particular type of watch, maybe this particular feature could be coupled with a folding clasp that would make this timepiece even more in fashion and versatile.
(Photo credit: Horbiter's proprietary photo-shooting by Entropik)
Matteo Bulla @Horbiter