Oris on Horbiter®.
To date, on the pages of this magazine, there are fourteen articles about Oris (excluding the latest one); a confirmation of how much the manufacturer from Hölstein could rouse our interest and how much attention it deserves. I will be extremely honest with you; had I not had the chance to write for Horbiter®, I would probably never got to know the Oris brand so thoroughly and it would have been such a shame.
In recent times, there are very few brands that can boast such a strong growth, despite the fact that Oris‘s history started in 1904 already.
The Artelier collection, Oris’s high range collection.
The Artelier collection, Oris‘s high range collection, has gained a new model since Baselworld 2017; it is the Calibre 113 which shares the same basic architecture with the 110 (the first), 111 and 112 calibres. With its Artelier collection and with this latest version in particular, Oris created a mixture of exclusive complications that are typically geared towards a target of executive globetrotters; from what I can recall, there are currently no other watches on the market that can boast the same combination of functions (at least on an all-analog-configuration side).
The non-linear indicator of the power reserve (that has now become one of brand’s trademarks and also the trademark of the family of calibers crafted on a 110 basis) is located at 3 o’clock, while the day window lies in the centre of the dial, which features a pleasant and noticeable beveling at the edges.
The date is located at 9 o’clock (perhaps it is a little too much in your face, if you consider how clean the overall dial is), the small decentralized seconds are also located at 9 o’clock (they give the timepiece a vague two-counter-chrono look) and, finally, the month with the calendar week of the year are located on the external rehaut of the dial and are indicated by a red-headed hand; these are the indications/complications that you can spot on the large dial of an Oris Artelier Calibre 113.
The generous size of the case (43mm) allows for a good spreading of the various complications; they are not too many, but they are distributed in a harmonious way and everything is tidy and easily readable. In my opinion, this last feature is what makes this watch perfectly suitable for a professional (for whom it was probably originally designed for).
Please raise your hand if you are not one of those, who look for a calendar with week numbers on Google when they have to suddenly plan something. In offices across the world, the universal planning unite of measurement is the calendar week.
The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is an analog scheduler for your wrist.
The 113 calibre is a little jewel in itself and is manual too
The 113 calibre is a little jewel in itself and is manual too; quite a rarity and one of the reasons why we like the Oris Artelier family and its last variation also. On the case-back, you can view the calibre in all its grandeur and ‘size‘ through the sapphire crystal.
Like a fine calibre within a pocket watch from the beginning of the last century, the 113 calibre fills the whole case and is not extremely thick; a rather non-mainstream solution that shows Oris‘s courage in embarking on a different path in a courageous and non-conformist way, if compared to the multitude of automatic calibres mushrooming everywhere (the brand is in good company with Panerai).
The technical choices are extremely interesting and satisfying also from an aesthetic point of view; take a look at the huge winding barrel wheel that guarantees up to 10 (you heard it right; 10!) days of power reserve.
The crafting techniques used here are of the industrial type (keep in mind Oris‘s production volumes), despite the fact that the Artelier collection cannot count on the production volumes of a Oris Divers Sixty–Five, the crafting quality and the finishes are of the highest level.
The photos, even for those who have not yet had the chance to touch with their own hands one of these timepieces, do justice, and, moreover, the calibre has been designed so that all its functions can be managed through a single crown, thus leaving the polished case-middle completely free from any type of adjustment mechanisms.
It is interesting to note how the non-linear indicator of the power reserve works; it is a real technological gem that was promptly patented and that accelerates its rotation when approaching the zero.
The main secret of this calibre, which, due to its “expressive power“, fully surprises you when you look at it for the first time, can be found in the Centre of Excellence in Oris; a newly-founded centre, whose purpose is to manufacture all the movements and the most innovative watches of this brand, it is a development centre, where Oris has laid a solid foundation for the future development of its brand.
The President, Ulrich W. Herzog, states that “Oris proudly boasts a long watch-making tradition. The Calibre 113 represents yet another big step forward for us, if you consider that this is the fourth movement that has been entirely developed by Oris in quite a few years. These are exciting times for Oris and for Oris’s fans. Our Centre of Excellence has firmly established itself as the seat of our most-talented watch-makers and as a pillar, on which we will continue to build our future as a company manufacturing solely mechanical watches“.
This statement reminds me of the same philosophy that Mazda adopted in the automotive industry; the creation of a pool of extremely talented engineers working on the engines of the future, including the rotative engine, and which bases its image on real valuable contents for the customer, leaving aside the usual boring marketing campaigns.
The Oris Artelier Calibre 113 is available in two versions at a retail price of CHF5,900; one version sports an opal silver dial, while the other version features an anthracite dial.
The strap is available in brown, gray or black alligator leather or even as a stainless-steel bracelet. The retail price is competitive, given the quality and technology contained within this calibre. “A Real Watch for Real People“, as Oris itself describes its timepiece.
(Photo credit: Horbiter®)
Andrea Frigerio @Horbiter®
