The new Tudor watches 2025

Intro

2025 proves that Tudor has found its way. They did before Watches and Wonders 2025 since the brand already offers a vast product portfolio and is in multiple categories. Still, introducing an ultra-professional diving watch ends a renovation cycle that places Tudor among the most attractive luxury watch brands.

Tudor Pelagos Ultra

Sitting on top of the news sheet is the Pelagos Ultra, refreshing a collection whose life cycle is among the longest in the brand’s offering. With their new 1,000-meter professional diving watch designed for saturation diving, the Pelagos collection holds the first-page news while raising its technical specifications above anything else, including the Black Bay.

Thus, the Pelagos Ultra brings back a super professional watch since the never-forgotten Hydronaut Hydro 1200 was phased out. Larger than a standard Pelagos, it measures 43 mm in diameter and is 14.5 mm thick. It houses the METAS-certified calibre MT5612-U, sporting a 65-hour maximum power reserve. In figures, it’s not much larger nor thicker than an ordinary Pelagos, and it comes with specifications geared towards the most demanding watch enthusiast or professional diver.

Crafted in grade 2 titanium, with a grade 5 titanium case back, a Pelagos Ultra houses a helium escape valve on the case’s left side. It sports the much-appreciated unidirectional turning bezel with a matte ceramic inlay and details highlighting the perceived quality. The dial stands out in readability and tool watch appearance alike. Applied monobloc hour markers, filled with luminescent material, are oversized, as are the hour and minute hands.

The watch glows turquoise green on the minute hand and the luminous dot at twelve, matching the equally green “PELAGOS” wording on the dial and the bracelet adjustment system.

Introduced when the Pelagos first appeared, the system provides a clever and handy micro-adjustment mechanism inside the bracelet clasp. It now adopts a luminous marker to indicate the adjustment point. Considering size and product placement, the new Pelagos Ultra, which comes with an additional replacement rubber strap (on a pin buckle), looks like a replacement for a standard Pelagos. The watch is listed at just above 6,000 Euros.

Black Bay 68

From a product news perspective, the Black Bay 68 deserves the headlines since it marks a whole new collection (the Pelagos Ultra is a sub-collection instead), but it is nothing different from a technical point of view. The latest collection reaffirms that Tudor’s customers were possibly looking for larger Black Bays. The watch is 43 mm large per 13.6 mm thick, outperforming the “golden ratio” Black Bay 58.

It comes powered by the MT 5601-U calibre with a 70-hour power reserve and is certified as a MASTER chronometer by Metas. Tudor has introduced two options: a lovely blue one sporting a “Tudor blue” sunray dial and a silver one.

The blue model wins, hands down. This Tudor Black Bay is designed for large-wrist watch aficionados. It is steel with a no-rivet three-link bracelet, confirming its status as the most contemporary Black Bay.

Marketing and design set the new Black Bay 68 apart from the vintage-inspired Black Bay 58. It adopts the well-taught and executed T-Fit system, but there is no rubber strap option, and it feels like a missed opportunity. A Tudor Black Bay 68 retails for 4,810 Euros.

The Black Bay 58 gets better and better.

Here is the best-selling Black Bay to date, the size that skyrocketed the collection’s staggering success. The Black Bay 58 has undergone continuous improvement over the years, including major and minor ones, as suggested by the watch community to make it better and more compliant than ever before.

On the outside, it delivers a vivid new burgundy dial and bezel, yet the product improvements go far below the surface and extend to old and new five-link bracelets.

They adopt a T-Fit clasp on the bracelet or an optional rubber strap. At the same time, the standard three-link one welcomes a new rivet production process undertaken by Tudor to mimic as faithfully as possible the vintage tapered bracelet and its rivets via a new laser-operated production process.

The five-link bracelet is beautifully executed and exceptionally comfortable. As said, it closes on a T-Fit clasp and is the option to go if you’re willing to capture a Fifty-Eight’s original essence. Tudor also introduced the Master Chronometer-certified movement across the whole collection.

A Black Bay 58 is still the leading, most enduring, refined, and widely appreciated. Sorted by decreasing price, from most to least expensive, it retails for 4,700 euros, 4,580 euros, or 4,360 euros, respectively, if you opt for a five-link bracelet, a standard bracelet, or a rubber strap.

Black Bay Pro with opaline dial

The Pro collection grows, now welcoming an option to the original black dial model. A new opaline dial adds brightness and highlights the two-tone identity of the entry-level, two-timezone GMT watch. As with the original model, it adopts a three-link bracelet, Tudor’s signature jacquard strap with a customized pin buckle, or a hybrid rubber and leather strap with a Tudor logo-equipped folding clasp.

Despite loving such an iteration more than the three-timezone Black Bay GMT, I never understood why Tudor introduced a second GMT option. Nonetheless, the opaline dial adds appeal to the collection. Please note that the MT 5652 movement is certified as a Chronometer, not a Master Chronometer. The Black Bay Pro is priced at 4,470 Euros on a bracelet and 4,140 Euros on a strap (fabric or hybrid).

Final thoughts

Among the new features, let me add that a new five-link bracelet with a T-fit clasp is now available on the chronograph, thus finalizing a product offering where details, and touch and feel stand out. A new Pelagos model also finalizes the renovation process.

The Pelagos Ultra model is the headline news; it keeps the spirit and style of the collection. Still, I would have gone in a different direction in two areas: first, a grade 5 titanium since grade 2 is too soft; second, a helium-waterproof case. A decompression helium valve is technically outdated, and it is what you’d expect when spending more than 6,000 euros.

A new five-link bracelet is brilliant since it adds versatility, comfort, and charm to a bold collection. Finally, let’s talk about the average selling price. Tudor is growing steadily as a brand and tries hard to keep its average selling price below the five thousand euro threshold for its standard three-hand watches. I think it is a line the brand should not exceed to keep its momentum going.

(Photo credit: Horbiter®)

Giovanni Maria Di Biase @Horbiter®