Table of Contents
Introduction
With the launch of the Longines HydroConquest GMT, the new product development strategy proves it’s keeping its pace unstoppably. 2023 has been exceptionally prolific so far; it kicked off with the re-edition of historical models like the Pilot Majetek, and the brand has undergone a significant design review like never before in recent history, with the new, top-selling Conquest collections hitting the spot between the first and second half of the year.
While the fully-overhauled Conquest has received much praise for its sleeker silhouette and clever price point, the 2023 Hydroconquest GMT joins a much more competitive product category; the GMT-equipped diving watch is the new destination for all-round sports watch seekers.
An entirely new face
If a Spirit Flyback, for instance, takes inspiration from the Spirit, the Longines HydroConquest GMT preserves the collection’s family feeling but debuts a whole new design concept that we expect it’ll involve a fully-renovated HydroConquest anytime soon.
The new case design
The case body abandons sharp edges and large Arabic numerals to become curvier, offering a unique, integrated line from lug to crown protectors. The case flanks look more generous and almost surround the diving rotating bezel, as seen from atop.
The outcome is a bolder new design, which feels sturdier and has no frills; it’s contemporary and clean but less original than the “outgoing” design.
The bezel’s grooves are also larger, while baton indexes replace the rounded ones, and those large Arabic numerals synonymous with any HydroConquest diving watch. Longines’ designers took this chance to renew and upgrade the original collection.
In brief, the side profile is tall and bold, and the lugs are slightly curved in their final part. Also, you’ll notice the luminous dot at twelve is oversized. The watch has improved quality and details and offers a more attractive, luxurious design.
According to the specs sheet, the case measures 41,00 mm across (winding crown excluded) and 12,90 mm in thickness. It’s not the tallest timepiece in its product category, but shaving a few tens off the case’s thickness would further improve comfort and usability, considering the new model weighs a considerable 181,4 grams.
The HydroConquest GMT bracelet
Here is where things get even more interesting; an unexpected form-and-function new bracelet hits the spot, and we’re sure it has required the most significant design effort. The HydroConquest GMT (as it is with a Conquest) adopts a new H-shaped bracelet aiming to enhance the user experience aesthetically and technically. The H-shaped design is nothing new in horology but is more refined than any Oyster-looking three-piece bracelet.
It is 21mm wide on top to taper towards the clasp, a thoroughly thought and nicely built folding clasp with safety push buttons and a button-operated micro-adjust mechanism. The variable geometry design further enhances the bold case shape.
As an option, Longines offers a NATO strap or a rubber strap, the latter mounting a folding clasp. Head to our “Final Thoughts” paragraph to read our comments.
The Longines calibre L844.5
The title suggests a slightly different calibre than a Spirit Zulu Time‘s (coded as L844.4). It is true as far as the Chronometer certification is concerned.
Therefore, the movement is the same; it beats at 3.5 Hertz, offers three days of power reserve when fully wound, and comes equipped with a silicon hairspring. Hence, the new HydroConquest GMT is a Traveler GMT. It is not chronometer-certified; the above explains the calibre L844.5.
Final thoughts
The new Longines HydroConquest GMT is the sportiest “Longines GMT” watch available, based on a rugged diver watch to attract the largest possible audience.
The replacement NATO strap (available in khaki and beige) makes for a multipurpose timepiece, as are the black or blue rubber straps. Longines has equipped them with a folding clasp, while our favourite option still would be a pin buckle paired with Longines-branded rubber strap.
Four dial palettes are available; you can go for the stand-out green or brown – we’d pick the green one with a contrasting black ceramic bezel – or a more mainstream black or blue. We applaud the build quality; the fit and finish are flawless, and the bracelet is the best in the business; here is a wholly different watch than anything HydroConquest-related you have ever experienced.
The price point has grown, too; the new models retail for 3,150 Euros on a bracelet or a rubber strap and 3,050 Euros if you opt for a NATO strap.
(photo credit: Horbiter®)
Giovanni Di Biase @Horbiter®
