Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo

23 June 2020 | Longines

Longines is among those brands that value the most any suggestion coming from journalists, collectors, standard consumers, even more so when the latter are based in Italy, which prides itself with hosting one of the most massive audiences of the brand's enthusiasts. According to unofficial sources, the Heritage collection covers 5% of the brand's total sales, yet much more when it comes to nourishing Longines' brand awareness.

Walter Von Känel, I was honored to interview more than once, is leaving the incoming President a formidable business machine from a commercial standpoint. Also, he has paved the way for Longines to keep growing, especially in key markets like the Italian one. The most relevant collection introduced this year, the Longines Spirit, new timepieces still under embargo, and new product additions to the Heritage collection place Longines in a privileged position in its class, from my point of view. After introducing the Longines Heritage Classic Chronograph 1946, earlier this year, the brand enlarges the Heritage offering further with both a chronograph and a three-hander.

Chronograph and three-hander celebrate the second half of the 1940s, during which two-counter classic chronographs were sought after, followed by three-register Chronos, way before luxury steel sports watches hit the market. The Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo chronograph confirms, first and foremost, what can Longines do, and how it is possible to get a new identity out of a freshly released wristwatch. Both products, named after a trendy style in the late 40s, showcase a two-tone dial, reasonable size, and modern mechanical movements.

The chronograph confirms all the good we have found on its 1946-named sibling; its style is luxurious, but not crowded, since tones, fonts, wordings combine successfully. The historic Longines logo, too, is all but intrusive. In this regard, I can only confirm what I stated when reviewing the Classic Chronograph 1946: I love it. I think designers capitalized on what they have experienced with the Heritage collection year after year; the case is bigger than the original despite not exceeding the 40mm threshold (38,5 mm, when it comes to the three-hander), thus appealing to vintage-addicts and newcomers alike. Powering the Chrono is the Longines L895.5 caliber, modified by ETA exclusively for Longines, pimped up to 54 hours of maximum power reserve. It makes it thicker than any vintage one, given it is modular and automatic.

The three-hand option is an eye-catcher, and a more affordable and cleaner option if you're not into chronographs. It houses the modern Longines L893.5 caliber with a silicon balance spring that ensures 64 hours of maximum power reserve, a mainstream among many Longines current products. While praising the brand for adopting such technical refinement, I wish I had seen the same piece featuring a hand-wound ETA movement instead. The new Longines Heritage Classic Tuxedo watches will soon be available at Euro 1,950 and Euro 2,930, respectively. For more information, please visit the official Longines website.