Towards the end of 2018, we reviewed one of the 280th–anniversary commemorative collections' most exciting pieces by Jaquet Droz. Although not being the most expensive nor the most complicated timepiece introduced, the Skelet–one started a new chapter for the brand, being a source of inspiration both aesthetically and technically for current collections too. Please take a look at a Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Chronograph Ivory Enamel Limited Edition's winding rotor, for example.
Building on the success of the first Grande Seconde Skelet–One, Jaquet Droz keeps expanding its offering. It is applying the formula that made the standard Grande Seconde iconic, by introducing new variants that extend the more avant-garde collection the prestigious watchmaker has launched in recent times. The embargo is officially over, and we are therefore allowed to keep the curtain off the new Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Skelet–One in red gold and, a first-ever for the brand, a plasma ceramic version. First, the reference J003523241 introduces a second red gold variant, showcasing a slightly different personality in comparison to the original one: long red-gold applied baton indexes replace the original Roman numerals. Jaquet Droz is differentiating the traditional Grande Seconde from the Skelet–One collection further. The latter works more like an outsider, in my opinion, and is geared towards attracting a different customer, someone who's looking for something less traditional than a Jaquet Droz Grande Seconde Dual Time Silver, for example. Plasma ceramic is a first for the brand. We are familiar with this material already since it is adopted by other high-end brands from the same Group. Yet, it works pretty well with a Grande Seconde Skelet–One's design, and combines lightness and scratch-resistance with an attractive polished black-gray metallic effect. Jaquet Droz's designers opted in this case for a two-tone style, pairing white markings with black-gray. Indexes, hands, and winding mass are in 18–carat white gold, here. If we are familiar with a Skelet–One in red gold, or in ceramic, we are eager to find out how plasma ceramic works when paired to the timepiece's skeletonized architecture and how it compares to standard ceramic, too. Last but not least, the gold version comes on a gray alligator strap, whereas the plasma ceramic on gray fabric instead. Regarding product specifications, there's a slight difference between the two: the plasma ceramic Skelet–One's is 0,5mm bigger than the Red Gold one's (41,5mm vs. 41). It is too early to draw any conclusion about the two new models; nonetheless, we got our hands-on other Skelet–One twice, and we loved them; for further information, please visit the official Jaquet Droz website: https://www.jaquet-droz.com/
(Photo credit: courtesy of Jaquet Droz)
Gaetano C @Horbiter®