Intro
The year that is coming to an end will be sorely missed for the unrivalled list of anniversaries in the watch industry. Alongside long-established brands, there are also legendary timepieces like the Girard-Perregaux Laureato, which turns 50 today.
What the brand unveils following a new movement’s reveal is the much-awaited Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty.
Following the likes of the 1972 Royal Oak and the Nautilus, the Laureato is not a Gerald Génta’s brainchild; still, it ranks among the all-time greats.
And to prove the “haters” wrong, GP has packed the commemorative edition with exquisite execution, let alone the design that was and still is subjective.
From Laureato to Laureato Fifty
I won’t explore Girard-Perregaux’s history before moving on to the new Laureato, but the Swiss manufacture holds a special place in my heart.
It’s the first manufacturer I’ve ever visited since the magazine went online. If there’s one takeaway from visiting several workshops, it’s that Girard-Perregaux has masterfully preserved a traditional approach to Haute Horlogerie while pushing technological innovation to new heights.
Back in the days, it was among the first brands to develop the tourbillon complication, which included multi-axial assemblies; it also managed the quartz revolution like no other Swiss brand has.
Every brand needs a sports watch on a bracelet as a pillar of its offering, and so does Girard-Perregaux, and did most Indie brands and microbrands with no legacy at all.
A Laureato sits among the most prestigious sports watches in the industry.
When looking at the current Laureato, it feels outdated. Also, consider that most competitors joined the party with excellent propositions, such as Bvlgari with the Octo Finissimo, Parmigiani with the Tonda PF, and H. Moser & Cie. with the Streamliner, among the independent low-volume brands.
The development team at Girard-Perregaux, whose operations put it on par with boutique brands, tried to mimic the original 1975 model, in steel and gold, as faithfully as possible while improving the product’s sophistication inside and out to offer a flawless, comfortable, and detailed product, and in brief, making it a statement piece.
Case, bracelet, clasp: top-notch execution.
The case measures 39.0 mm by 9.8 mm thick, according to the press release, where Girard-Perregaux also claims the design has undergone extensive refinement via more edgy surfaces.
Case in point: water resistance is rated at 150 meters, and perceived quality has improved.
For example, the pictures highlight the bracelet’s polished edges and corners, and how they pair with the yellow gold centre links’ bevels.
The case back execution is flawless: the flat, brushed annular section welcomes carefully spaced inscriptions, and a bevelled, thin, polished edge with four mirror-polished fastening screws.
Sliding down the bracelet, whose polished profiles extend to the triple-butterfly folding clasp, you can appreciate how lovingly detailed the hidden clasp on the outside is: the GP logo is embossed and symmetrically split between the bracelet’s halves.
The bracelet is released by two opening buttons arranged in an octagon; once the butterfly opens, “Girard-Perregaux” appears on one blade (not both, unfortunately).
No headline news when looking at the dial’s Clous de Paris pattern, but you won’t want to change the recognisable 1975 Laureato watch.
However, complete refinement requires best-in-class engineering, and this is where Girard-Perregaux stands as a top-tier watch. Is the new GP 4800 up to the task?
The Girard-Perregaux GP 4800 Movement
Girard-Perregaux developed a new calibre for the Laureato Fifty, confirming its curated, boutique approach to watchmaking.
As an almost entirely vertically integrated watch manufacturer (I believe the hairspring is sourced), the GP 4800 raises the bar while meeting strict assembly criteria.
In brief, its performance sheet is on par with the benchmark, loaded with every detail any enthusiast would expect, and it compares favourably when offered multiple buying options.
Powered by a centrally mounted rotor, it winds unidirectionally and was possibly engineered to accommodate mechanical complications, such as the chronograph.
The hair spring, escapement, and pallet-to-fork assembly are all made of silicon, thus withstanding magnetic fields, reducing hysteresis, and reducing friction over time.
Among the cons is the replacement cost if any part should occasionally break down. From a brand perspective, it covers the entire cycle from product to after-sales service, reducing labour times and costs.
It works on a free-sprung balance, like you’d expect from a brand this refined.
Let alone the 55-hour power reserve, the execution and decoration showcase a Haute Horlogerie approach.
The skeletonized and polished two-fasten bridge adopts chamfered edges, as do the two rhodium-plated bridges with gold engravings inside and out.
Also, mirror-polished screws stand out. I love the contrast between the polished and sandblasted areas on the oscillating weight and the balance cock. It encompasses what Haute Horlogerie stands for.
Initial thoughts
From the available pictures, technical specifications, and calibre breakdown, I can only confirm the Girard-Perregaux Laureato Fifty is the best Laureato since 1975, the most sophisticated ever.
Limited to 200 pieces, each priced at €28,500, the Laureato Fifty jumps to a new class and proves Girard-Perregaux’s aim to elevate its hero product, not without any risk.
It now competes with the best-in-class products.
I assume the commemorative edition won’t be a one-off experiment; design and technology usher in a new era; we can’t wait to see what the future holds.
(Photo credit: Girard-Perregaux)
Gaetano C @Horbiter®
