Introducing the Grand Seiko watches for 2024

Introduction

With the launch of the Evolution 9 collection, Grand Seiko took the next step in renewing and upgrading its mechanical movements and style. Watches and Wonders was the venue for the 2024 new products release, with the Evolution 9 collection again taking centre stage.

A unexpected dress watch: the new SLGW002 and SLGW003

If we had to summarize what makes the Evolution 9 collection a class apart, we would say “Style” and “upgraded mechanics.” Since its release, the collection has set new technical standards and elevated the “Grammar of Design” to new heights.

The new models’ case designs are quintessentially Evolution 9 automatic, yet they bring new proportions and a slimmer shape to the game. The lugs smoothly follow your wrist to improve comfort further and modernize what a Grand Seiko stands for.

Therefore, the dial retains all the Evo 9 traits, like the squared, edgy double-applied indexes, here thinner and longer than its self-winding siblings. Accordingly, the bezel looks slimmer, too, as do the case’s lugs, according to the brand.

Here is a classic timepiece, available only on a crocodile leather strap with a folding buckle. The case measures 38.6 mm across (crown excluded) and just 9.95 mm in thickness, making the new Grand Seiko Evolution 9 SLGW003 an exquisite, classy option among dress watches.

The case comes in Brilliant Hard Titanium. It is the titanium counterpart of the brand’s Ever Brilliant Steel, to match titanium’s lightness with the signature zaratsu polishing, a must-have on any Grand Seiko watch, and enhanced brilliance. Housed in such a case is a stunning new mechanical movement.

The new, jaw-dropping calibre 9SA4

A new family of mechanical movements pairs high frequency with long power reserve; that is Evolution 9’s pedigree. We have also admired the self-winding 9SA5 calibre since it came out. Overall, the design and finishes are top-notch, with the oscillating mass resembling the best Saxon watchmaking school.

The new 9SA4 mechanical movement adds to the calibre’s portfolio while preserving its DNA. It beats at 5 Hz and boasts an 80-hour power reserve. It is a fully redesigned movement with at least 40% new components than its self-winding counterpart.

Among its stand-out specs is the double-impulse escapement suited to an ultra-flat calibre. Grand Seiko engineers worked relentlessly to make it as technically advanced as it was pleasing to view.

The movement is tested in six positions at three different temperatures for 17 days, ensuring an accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day.

At 31.0 mm across, it seamlessly fits the case back, as proven by the slim case back’s ring with a see-through sapphire crystal. Standing out here is the two-joint-fastened balance cock and the extensive Côtes de Genève décoration.

The ratchet wheel’s trigger system is shaped like a wagtail’s beak, while the power reserve gauge sits at the top left, split into three segments. Efficiency comes as a faster hand winding operation, too: 15% less than a 9SA5 movement crown’s rotations are required to wind it fully.

Two models at launch: one in titanium, the other in rose gold

Grand Seiko introduced two options: the reference SLGW003 in Brilliant Hard Titanium, a regular production model priced at 11,700 Euros. The SLGW002 comes in rose gold and just 80 examples for €49,500. The new hand-wound Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat is undoubtedly the 2024 Grand Seiko talking piece.

Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat SLGH021

Please welcome the first-ever Evolution 9 self-winding model with Ever Brilliant Steel case and bracelet.

Quick reminder: Grand Seiko claims its proprietary alloy has a PREN (Pitting Resistance Equivalent Number) number whose value is 1.7 times higher than a standard (AISI 316L) alloy. The new reference is the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat SLGH021, a limited edition model with a stunning new dial.

Dial-making is special at Grand Seiko, even more so with the Evolution 9 series. Measuring 40.0 mm across and 11.7 mm in thickness, the designers debuted a clear, shiny new dial to match the case as effectively as possible.

Masters watchmakers at the Shizukuishi Studio took their inspiration from the Iwate River flowing across the Genbi Valley. The dial pops up like never before, featuring a light green shade, making the SLGH021 one of the most attractive Evolution 9 models ever. Produced in 1,000 examples, the Grand Seiko Evolution 9 Hi-Beat SLGH021 retails for 10,100 Euros.

Grand Seiko Sport Tokyo Lion SBGC275 20^th Anniversary Caliber 9R

2024 marks the Spring Drive 9R series’ 20^th Anniversary, and the Japanese brand celebrates with a “King Lion”-based limited edition model. The lion encompasses what Grand Seiko is about, and the square-shaped case design is the series’ manifesto.

Totalling 44.5mm in diameter and 16.8mm in thickness, the Grand Seiko Sport Tokyo Lion SBGC275 is a bold watch with built-in High-Intensity Titanium to slim down its weight as much as possible. Again, the dial celebrates nature; pictured here is the Hotaka mountain chain in the Shinsu region, where all Grand Seiko Spring Drive watches are assembled.

Reproducing the mountains’ tones at dawn, the colours turn from ruby red to orange according to the light, as seen in the Studio when the light hovers over the mountains across the sunrise process.

Grand Seiko technicians adopted a new technique called Optical Multilayer Coating, which involves a vapour deposition process. During production, they apply several nanoscale layers until the pattern is achieved.

To celebrate the 20th Anniversary, they debuted a new calibre, the 9R96, improving the already-respected 9R86’s performance to up to +/- 10 seconds per month. Limited to 700 examples, the new Grand Seiko Sport Tokyo Lion SBGC275 retails for 14,000 Euros.

Grand Seiko Sport Tokyo Lion GMT SBGE307

The “Tokyo Lion” design applies to a new GMT model with a spring-drive movement. From a design perspective, this is not headline news since it has belonged to the current collection within the Grand Seiko Sport collection for some time now.

As cited above, the lion is Grand Seiko’s insignia, as reproduced on the chronograph movement’s oscillating weight. This case design epitomizes the brand’s elite models. Coming as a non-limited-edition model, Grand Seiko took inspiration from the lion’s crest to create the ivory-white dial.

The 44.5 mm large and 14.3 mm thick High-Intensity Titanium case houses the Spring Drive GMT 9R66 calibre, which has 72 hours of power reserve when fully wound and an accuracy of +/-15 seconds per month. The retail price is 11,700 euros.

Grand Seiko Sport Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SGBJ277

Another Hi-Beat GMT joins the Sport collection. Offered initially with a Spring-Drive movement, the timepiece has since adopted a GMT take on the 9S high-frequency one, coded as 9S86. Countless options include a green and white spring-drive-powered model coded as SBGE295.

The same colour combination now houses a mechanical movement and a new bright dial inspired by a green and snow scenario, defined as “sekkei” in Japan. We love the final result because it also lights the watch up in the dark, thanks to the green LumiBrite on the bezel, hands, luminous indexes at the cardinal points, and the GMT hand.

Featuring a bidirectional rotating bezel and an additional 24-hour scale on the dial, it is a “Flyer GMT” that measures up to three time zones, whose home time relies on a 24-hour day-and-night scale.

It is not tiny by all means: the diameter stops at 44.2 mm in diameter and 14.4 mm in thickness, with a lug-to-lug of 50.6 mm to help the case taper and wrap around the wearer’s wrist as comfortably as possible. The 9S86 calibre offers a power reserve of 55 hours and a +5/-3 seconds per day accuracy.

Grand Seiko Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days

Again, the “King Lion” case identifies the most luxurious 2024 Grand Seiko timepiece. The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days model is the pinnacle of the Japanese brand’s offering (Kodo excluded). It features a hand-engraved platinum case showcasing diamonds and blue sapphires on the case and dial.

Here is the so-called White Lion, the fifth exclusive watch crafted at the legendary Micro Artist Studio whose case is made of zaratsu-polished 950 Platinum. The Studio’s master artisans then selected diamonds and four types of blue sapphires to adorn the case and dial.

Some stones are set also on the triangular-shaped lugs, while the remaining parts are engraved by hand. The case side is fully mirror-polished instead.

Baguette-cut diamonds and sapphires are arranged on the minute ring to identify the hour and minute markers, and stones are set on the outermost circumference to identify the outer ring. The bezel combines diamonds with gradient blue sapphires recurrently.

The Spring Drive caliber 9R01

This eight-day power reserve movement is assembled and adjusted at the Micro Artist Studio, and the engine powers the most exclusive Grand Seiko watches. It is a technical masterpiece, capable of a ±0.5 seconds per day accuracy, whose main aesthetic trait is the single-piece bridge.

Its edge pays tribute to Mount Fuji, while the Spring Drive’s wheel visible on top mimics the sunrise. The power reserve indicator is a tribute to Lake Suwa, located in the same area where the Micro Artist Studio is based.

Price and availability

The Grand Seiko Masterpiece Spring Drive 8 Days SBGD215 is a limited edition of 8 pieces priced at 310,000 Euros.

Grand Seiko Kodo Tourbillon SLGT005

The first-ever wristwatch to combine a tourbillon and a constant force mechanism in the same assembly, the Grand Seiko Kodo was unveiled at Watches and Wonders 2022. Its technical package is terrific. By pairing the constant force device and a one-minute tourbillon along the same axis, the engineers eliminated all the energy losses of the kinematic chain from the barrel to the regulator.

The new SLGT005 reference is not technically different from the first model; it is primarily a slightly different take on the same formula. The main difference lies in the colour scheme, whose finishes celebrate the dawn of the day and not the darkness. Such a choice makes one better appreciate the craftsmanship and how it works.

Sporting a Brilliant Hard Titanium outer case and a 950 platinum core, the product’s finishes are superb, and so are the mechanical components down to the tiniest ones, as exemplified by the Torx-type micro screws (case back excluded).

The Grand Seiko caliber 9ST1

The innovative 9ST1 calibre, featuring a compact constant torque mechanism and tourbillon, is the heart of this masterpiece, accounting for one-third of the 340 assembled pieces.

Kodo’s constant force system makes one step or click per second, and its tone combines with the 4 Hertz regulator’s vibration. The outcome is a pleasing and distinctive sound while the analogue counter marks the seconds running via a ruby placed on one of the constant force’s cage’s arms. Please note that the system runs for 50 hours once the watch is fully wound.

To achieve the claimed +5 to -3 seconds per day accuracy (with the watch in an assigned position for 48 hours), Grand Seiko engineers developed a specific test procedure lasting 48 hours and providing six positions and three temperatures.

Every movement is then verified during a 34-day testing cycle. The case’s compact design means it measures 43.8 mm and is just 12.9 mm thick.

Where the Grand Seiko Kodo is assembled

First, the case fastens to a leather strap whose light colour is obtained by depositing multiple layers of Urushi lacquer. Interestingly, it is also a sports watch since it is waterproof up to 100 meters.

Thus, Grand Seiko proves the wearer can use a Kodo as extensively as possible. Each timepiece is assembled at the Ginza atelier where Grand Seiko’s best master watchmakers work; the atelier is a “Custom Operations” workshop overseeing the 20-planned-piece assembly. Each timepiece retails for 385,000 euros.

Final thoughts

Products and materials bring Grand Seiko to an even higher level. The new hand-wound Evolution 9 collection is the fair’s hero and deserves the headlines. However, all the products released were excellent.

Leaving aside the high-end watchmaking or jewellery timepieces for a while, let us assess the core production models. For example, the new Evolution 9 Hi-Beat SLGH021 edition is a looker; Ever Brilliant Steel and Dial elevate the Hi-Beat sub-collection to new heights, outperforming the much-appreciated White Birch, in our opinion.

Tokio Lion: the chronograph is excellent, but the GMT model raises some doubts. We think that case works much better when housing a chronograph complication and looks dull in its GMT livery.

As far as the Hi-Beat 36000 GMT SGBJ277 is concerned, it is the same as the Evolution 9 series: a bright dial and an original scheme win hands down. All in all, the bracelet is where the design team might work the most. The three-link design is mainstream and dilutes the remarkable work on case, lugs and movement. Instead, the “Tokyo Lion” series’ H-shaped design is more distinctive, but a watch as impressive as the SBGC275 deserves an optional rubber strap.

(Photo credit: Grand Seiko, GS9 Club)

Giovanni Di Biase @Horbiter®