We admire Grand Seiko for its top-notch quality and commitment to excellence. The GS lovers’ community continues to grow globally, as the brand offers unstoppable product innovation, new executions, and top-performing calibres, like the next-gen Evolution 9 collection, for example.
Nonetheless, we share some criticism towards a too-conservative design, despite Grand Seiko offering an unrivalled price-to-content value proposition, far outperforming most Swiss competitors that often use their historical pedigree to secure a bigger market share.
The Grammar of Design has been Grand Seiko’s foundation since day one. Still, I feel it constraints rather than triggering creativity; here is why the newest Tokyo Lion collection is a welcome addition to the brand’s portfolio and sets itself at the opposite end of the spectrum to potentially attract customers whose passion for wristwatches is genuine but not as competent to jump to a connoisseur’s status directly.
The Tokyo Lion design
A new design language is on the block and draws inspiration from the lion, first introduced in 2019 with a Spring Drive chronograph.
Lined up across the Sport collection, the Lion-inspired models feature sharp edges and bold volumes, but never before have they achieved such a mighty result in either product identity and refinement; it is so jaw-dropping that you can hardly see the Grand Seiko’s sobriety, which we’ve been repeatedly taught to appreciate for decades.
The new Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G is, by far, the most attractive yet disruptive Lion-series model ever, and it foresees a scenario where ultra-classic collections sit alongside avant-garde, out-of-the-box experiments.
When we first posted a photo of an SLGC009G on Instagram, the response was nothing short of extraordinary, far exceeding our expectations.
A second one, released after Watches and Wonders, performed almost twice as much. What I like most about the SLGC009G is its seemingly odd mixture of volumes and surface treatments, resulting in a hefty yet unique case design that places Grand Seiko in a new light.
For instance, a Heritage Spring Drive UFA technically outperforms an SLGC009G; it is ultra-compact and far more precise but attracts a seasoned Grand Seiko fan looking for next-level and under-the-radar watchmaking.
In comparison, a Tokyo Lion Tentagraph is equally excellent but speaks volumes from the outside in.
An intricate case build
Multiple surfaces cross their paths and define profiles never seen anywhere else, where lighten-up parts cross seemingly darkened ones and vice versa.
Grand Seiko brought zaratsu polishing to its full potential with this execution.
In case you didn’t notice, the mid-case and bezel are octagonal, yet you won’t spot any “homage watch” feel to it.
Ironically, a Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G is how a Royal Oak Concept would look if Audemars Piguet were to make a Royal Oak Concept chronograph.
To top it all off, the in-house-engineered and treated Brilliant Hard Titaniumcase is a feast for the eyes, suggesting that Grand Seiko should continue to develop and expand its Tokyo Line collection anytime soon.
Specs-wise, you’re sitting in front of a 43.0 by 15.6 mils case, so hefty and shiny that you can hardly hide it from the watch spotter but so capable that you can explore your diving capabilities up to 20 bar down under.
A new home for the Tentagraph
At 139 grams, according to the official specs, the SLGC009G is not as light as you’d expect from a titanium watch, and this also has to do with the imposing Tentagraph calibre.
The first-ever fully mechanical Grand Seiko chronograph houses a top-tier movement. Unveiled in 2023, it works at 5 Hertz and adopts the best of the best from Seiko Group’s premium brand’s expertise and technology.
Running with an average accuracy of +5 to -3 seconds per day, it comes standard with a column wheel and a patented three-pointed hammer, making the reset function as precise and vibration-free as possible.
It also features a double impulse escapement and two barrels, capable of storing a three-day power reserve, ensuring this excellent result is guaranteed even when the chronograph is in use. Not any high-frequencychronograph.
Touch and feel
Never before has this section been so relevant in one of our reviews. How does a Tokyo Lion feel on the wrist? How much are titanium and the integrated rubber strap improving the experience?
You find yourself asking these questions when approaching such a provocative and hefty chronograph engineered for those with a large wrist who won’t walk unnoticed when fastened around their wrist.
Once the clasp is locked, you quickly appreciate a next-level user experience.
A curved case body helps wrap it around your wrist, as shown with my 19.5 cm wrist pictured here. The fully integrated variable thickness strap mirrors the case geometry with no gaps and lugs.
Slimming down towards the folding clasp, it ends up with a double safety button.
Grand Seiko could have opted for Brilliant Hard Titanium, but instead, it chose High-Intensity Titanium for the clasp.
Turn it outside down to discover a lion’s paw pattern, celebrating Grand Seiko’s DNA as much as reducing sweat via an air cushion between the wrist and the watch.
I forgot about the dial’s pattern, whose horizontal stripes reproduce a lion’s mane to empower further a three-dimensional displacement, topped by large trapezoidal applied indexes.
You’ll spot a similar pattern atop the moon-boot-shaped chrono buttons, whose operation is soft, precise, and sturdy. From any perspective, the execution and user experience are flawless.
Final thoughts
The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G proves that the design team at Grand Seiko is driven by innovation and forward-looking approach, pushing the envelope of creativity with the same energy they devote to safeguarding their noble, traditional Heritage models.
It’s a Concept-Watch-looking product built to impress, a statement piece with an Indie watchmaking allure.
Please find anything more refined than this Brilliant Hard Titanium case in its product category; you won’t. Yet, a €17,500 sticker price might be a deal breaker.
That’s a lot of money justified by supreme craftsmanship, top-tier performance, and production costs the brand can’t share with standard processing products like, for example, does with a 44GS or 62GS case in steel, which makes an SLGC009G a low-volume and high-rate niche product.
(Photo credit: Horbiter®)
Gaetano C @Horbiter®
In this article:
Chronograph
Complication that helps the wearer to measure time intervals without affecting the watch's standard time-telling function.
Case
It encases the mechanical movement and is crafted in one or more parts. It can also be a single piece, as with some professional diving watches, or made of unconventional…
Bezel
The bezel is particularly useful on diving watches, allowing you to check dive times. In this case, it unidirectionally rotates and usually comes in two parts: a metal (or ceramic,…
Line
It is the measurement unit that identifies the size of a movement. According to this measurement system, one line corresponds to 2,255mm.
Calibre
A calibre is the type of watch movement encased in an assigned timepiece. Its name is usually associated with the manufacturer's name and a standard code, e.g., ETA 2824.
Power Reserve
A mechanical watch feature displays, on the dial or the case back, the remaining power in a watch movement, showing the length of time until the timepiece must be rewound.
Frequency
It is the number of oscillations of the regulating organ. It is divided into hours, mechanical watches, and quartz watches.
Strap
A leather, rubber or other material band that secures the watch to the wearer's wrist.
The Grand Seiko Tokyo Lion Tentagraph SLGC009G marks a new journey for the Lion-inspired collection, which pays homage to Grand Seiko’s founding badge.
Designers created a bold three-dimensional case silhouette, whose surfaces in Brilliant Hard Titanium further play with light and shadow.
Comfort and finishes are top-notch; the perceived quality is next level. Additionally, it features a 20-bar water-resistant chronograph. Powering the watch is the brand’s first-class Tentagraph high-frequency calibre, introduced in 2023.
All in all, this is a stunning combination of style and workmanship, with a bold identity and a Concept Watch feel, which we assume will be manufactured in very low quantities.
