The Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase Date

Intro

Frederique Constant’s legacy is linked to the classic three-hands watch. Before the Highlife hit the market, thus becoming a “pull factor” as often a sports watch is to a brand, that architecture was FC’s major proposition, with several iterations from a standard model to a slimline yet extra-large 42 mm option.

2024 set the new Frederique Constant Manufacture Classic Moonphase Date as a centrepiece, building on a ten-year life cycle while improving design and engineering to make such a popular product great again and the epitome of Swiss-made affordable luxury.

The new Manufacture Classic Moonphase Date watches

Placed one alongside the others, the current three steel options (a fourth one is in gold) feel very familiar. While we can hardly spot any classic timepiece with moon phases and an alligator strap’s brand from afar, Frederique Constant’s proposition preserves an identity that quickly sets it apart at first glance.

In numbers, the product’s evolution is as follows: the case, crown not included, measures 40.00 mm across and 12.40 mm in thickness. Here is not an ultra-thin wristwatch, yet it slims down by 0.5 mm in diameter and 0.3 mm in thickness compared to its 2015 forerunner. That is enough to place the new ones among the golden-ratio models in diameter. We believe the brand couldn’t save any more space due to the FC-716’s overall size and an excessive gap between the sapphire crystal and the dial, where we believe there’s room for improvement.

Since its release, the watch has had simple, curvy lines reminiscent of the design heritage of the eighties to early nineties. There are no sharp edges, and extensive mirror polishing enhances this feeling. The dial has abandoned the dauphine-shaped hands and matching rectangular applied indexes and replaced them with diamond-cut trapezoidal and elongated applied indexes to make the dial look larger than it is.

The dial

Three options are available: a silver dial, a British Racing Green and a dark blue whose sunray finish on top brighten things up. Rolling your eyes down, you’ll see the moon phase and pointer date counter. We could spend endless hours discussing how useful a moon phase complication is; its “reason why” is that it pimps the dial and requires no additional adjustment after the original setup if you keep the watch wound enough.

Instead, let’s talk about details and finishes upgrades. A tiny ring and a thin step set it apart from the mid-dial. We can recognize all the traits you’d expect from a Classic Moonphase Date, yet improved and fine-tuned.

The calibre FC-716

That’s where Frederique Constant focused its efforts. Here is FC-715’s evolution, building on ten years of technical improvements to meet the expectations of a more demanding audience and face the competition. The new fan-shaped Côtes de Genève finish stands out, making the movement more appealing while boasting 72 hours of power reserve when fully wound.

Sturdiness sets in the first row, as proven by a full five-year warranty. It is nothing new in the business, yet it is not as popular in this price and product category. It is worth remembering that it is a 4Hertz-manufactured movement. As a result, the listed price remains competitive.

Final thoughts

Let’s start with retail prices: each steel model costs 3,895 euros, thus standing below a 4k€ threshold. Frederique Constant is the only watch brand to offer a classic Swiss-made timepiece with an in-house calibre and a moon phase complication in this area. The formula stays true to the brand’s DNA and improves the original model on many levels.

However, we would have gone with a tang buckle and a pin. The current folding clasp with a pin and the brand’s shield are distinctive yet not easy to manoeuvre when securing them on the wrist. I love the alligator leather strap, not its stiffness when in as-new condition.

(Photo credit: Horbiter®)

Giovanni Maria Di Biase @Horbiter®