CHANEL‘s approach to watchmaking relies on intangible stylistic codes originally set down by Mademoiselle’s universe. They are at the heart of its profound identity involving simplicity of forms, rigor of colors, and innovation of materials. The Première, first watch created by CHANEL in 1987 is an example of this exceptional creativity. Its shape was inspired by the octagonal geometry of the Place Vendôme and echoed in the No.5 perfume bottle stopper.
In 2012, on the occasion of its 25th anniversary, CHANEL created the Première Flying Tourbillon to offer women the opportunity to enter into the realm of high mechanical complications. This exceptional Tourbillon volant has been developed in close collaboration between CHANEL and the Swiss manufacturers, engineers and master-watchmakers Renaud & Papi (APRP SA) – the advanced research and development branch of Audemars Piguet. Last year, for the first time, CHANEL Watches has been rewarded during the 12th ceremony of the Grand Prix d’Horlogerie de Genève (GPHG), with the Première Flying Tourbillon watch, elected best in the “Ladies watch” prize category.
Technical description:
CHANEL, Première Flying Tourbillon for Only Watch
Unique piece manufactured in Switzerland.
«Première Flying Tourbillon» watch in 18-carat white gold set with 169 brilliant-cut diamonds ( ~ 2.20 carats) and black high-tech ceramic.
18-carat white gold case (28.5 x 37 mm) set with 92 brilliant-cut diamonds (~1.67 carats).
Black high tech ceramicbezel.
Colourless anti reflection treated sapphire crystal.
Polished black high tech ceramic dial.
18-carat white gold hands set with 15 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Tourbillon cabochon set with 19 brilliant-cut diamonds.
18-carat white gold crown set with 13 brilliant-cut diamonds and black high tech ceramic cabochon.
Black high tech ceramiccase-back.
Strap: sold on a black alligator strap but presented on a black satin strap.
18-carat white gold double folding buckle set with 30 brilliant-cut diamonds.
Water resistance: 30 meters.
“Camélia Flying Tourbillon” Calibre
Movement exclusively developed for CHANEL by Renaud et Papi (APRP SA)
Manual winding mechanical movement.
40 hour power reserve.
Number of parts: 225.
Components, chamfered, stretched, and circular grained.
Number of rubies: 18.
Flying Tourbillon: 73 components – carriage weight: 0.432 g.
Frequency: 21’600 vibrations/ hour (3 Hz).
Motor unit: 1 fixed clamp barrel.
Spring torque: 720 g.mm.
Custom designed oblong bottom plate.
Shockproof system on the balance.
Balance with variable inertia moment.
Wished Price: 150 000 €
(Photo credit: courtesy of Antiquorum)
Gaetano C. @Horbiter®
In this article:
Ceramic
Widely used for crafting a watch case and, in recent years, also for the bezels of diving watches and dials. Obtained from zirconia powder (ZrO2), ceramic offers superior scratch resistance…
Case
It encases the mechanical movement and is crafted in one or more parts. It can also be a single piece, as with some professional diving watches, or made of unconventional…
Bezel
The bezel is particularly useful on diving watches, allowing you to check dive times. In this case, it unidirectionally rotates and usually comes in two parts: a metal (or ceramic,…
Crown
Placed on the case side, it winds the mainspring. When pulled out, it also sets the time and the date. A screw-down crown increases water resistance and protects the movement…
Strap
A leather, rubber or other material band that secures the watch to the wearer's wrist.
Calibre
A calibre is the type of watch movement encased in an assigned timepiece. Its name is usually associated with the manufacturer's name and a standard code, e.g., ETA 2824.
Power Reserve
A mechanical watch feature displays, on the dial or the case back, the remaining power in a watch movement, showing the length of time until the timepiece must be rewound.
Frequency
It is the number of oscillations of the regulating organ. It is divided into hours, mechanical watches, and quartz watches.
Barrel
It is a cylindrical metal box closed by a cover that contains a spiral spring called the mainspring, which provides energy to run the timepiece.
