If the matter at hand were any watch brand and not Breguet, I’d instead refer to the above as a “capsule watch collection”; here is what I perceive when I look at the two new Breguet Type XXI 3815 in titanium and observe the colour options introduced by Breguet. They’re a breakthrough for a brand this conservative and used to break the rules primarily regarding mechanical complications and decorative art. However, the Type collection is a perfect template for such experiments for a couple of reasons; it’s the luxury sports watch par excellence across the brand’s offering, first and foremost, and a Breguet‘s collector’s daily companion to complement their more exclusive Tourbillon. Also, it pays tribute to the brand’s aviation pedigree that saw Breguet manufacture stunning aviator’s watches from the 50s onwards.
The official source of inspiration for the new Breguet Type XXI 3815 in titanium is the glorious Type 20, a two-counter chronograph we admired when re-issued on the occasion of Only Watch 2019. Back then, that one-off piece proved how attractive the French brand’s vintage aviator legacy is. While we’re all waiting to pull the trigger as Breguet will unveil a modern replacement to the original Type 20, the new models pictured here seem to pave the way for more two-register chronographs moving forward. The case is made of titanium and measures 42 millimetres across. On the wrist, at least by judging through the official photos, both models have a stance while wearing at less than the standard 42 mm, it seems. The truth is that a close-to-40 mm size is what enthusiasts and watch connoisseurs are looking for on such products, despite titanium being instrumental in enhancing comfort whatever the case size.
Each model is water-resistant to 100 meters and adopts a black sunray finish dial with orange or green Arabic numerals over a two-counter layout as cited above. If I had to choose, I’ll, no doubt, pick the orange edition, which looks more conservative and less fancy, although I admit Breguet did a great job when it deployed even more daring colour palettes; my mind goes to the yellow-accented Breguet Type XXI 3817 Ritorno in Volo (Retour en vol) exclusively made for the Italian market. From a technical standpoint, the minute and chronograph seconds counters are in the middle, and you can jump-start the Chrono hand by the push of a button (it’s a Flyback Chrono). Placed at nine is the 24-hour counter, with the small seconds counter located on the opposite side instead. The calibre 584 Q/A offers valuable technical specifications; not the slimmest movement in the business (the watch measures 15.2 mm across), it stands out thanks to an inverted straight-line lever with silicon horns.
Both options of the Breguet Type XXI 3815 adopt a calfskin strap with a three-blade folding clasp. They’re not cheap; retailing at 14,700 euros, they’re nonetheless refined enough to stand the competition, they boast a great brand and are limited to 250 pieces each. All in all, the price is in line or lower than most competitors in either steel or titanium. However, I’d love to swap from a strap to a titanium bracelet; it’ll make the Breguet Type XXI 3815 an all-rounder luxury sports watch and a great timepiece during the summer season too, given its 100-meter waterproofness.
(Photo credit: courtesy of Breguet)
Gaetano C @Horbiter®
