I’ve always thought that buying a luxury timepiece is a somewhat impulsive experience, as we are driven by a magazine ad, the internet or simply for we have been attracted by a brand with an awareness as strong as our personality. Most people seldom go more in depth in technical and historical details before buying a high end wristwatch. I believe I have today a good knowledge of fine watchmaking, much more have I indeed to learn yet.
My personal knowledge was sure less than enough when i attended Baselworld for the 1st time back in the years and where, walking through the fair, i stopped by the Blancpain’s booth. Since then, I went to Baselworld each year and as the years were passing by, I was more than curious to understand why Blancpain’s watches were never that advertised. My understanding of the brand history was growing alongside my curiosity. Ten days ago I stopped by in my hometown, Naples, for a weekend and stepped in the BRINKMANN shop, a watches and jewelry boutique founded in 1900 by Theo Brinkmann, a german sir who decided to settle in a town which once was a cultural benchmark in Europe:
I left the boutique with a BlancpainFifty Fathoms on my left wrist. You might be frightened at first sight by a Blancpain’s price tag, which is usually far higher than any other high end timepiece in the benchmark, but there’s a reason: Blancpain is a watch for the few. Annual production is extremely limited, it is all about exclusivity. Moreover, few people know it, Blancpain leads, since 1735, the way in creating smallest highly-complicated calibers. But let’s move on to the BlancpainFifty Fathoms:
It was launched in 1953 upon request by the French Navy and it is regarded to as the very first diver wristwatch to be unveiled. Its original name, the “Fifty Fathoms”, drew inspiration from the unit then adopted by professional divers and it is equal to 91,45m. Having in one’s hands an original BlancpainFifty Fathoms today is as possessing the diving watchmaking “Holy Graal”. Today’s BlancpainFiftyFathoms is widely available to the masses, but nevertheless it is mostly hand made. You can clearly see it by the mirror polishing and the engraved lettering “BLANCPAIN” on the carrure:
On the right hand side at 3 there is placed the winding crown with the “BLANCPAIN” logo embossed on it, and two small lugs to protect it. The most attractive view of the BlancpainFifty Fathoms is anyway the bezel side, which represents its Landmark, as the bezel itself is made out of a curved sapphire crystal which covers a highly luminescent graduated inlay and couples with a “glass box” form crystal.
Since such timepieces deserve more than a surprise, let’s have a look inside, where caliber 1315, an automatic movement with an astounding 5 days power reserve ensured by 3 barrels, beats. A solution made possible by using a unidirectional winding rotor, which leaves room to the movements gearings if compared to a bidirectional rotor unit. If you prefer a view on the movement I suggest you to go for the limited edition “Aqua Lung” Fifty Fathoms, whose transparent case-back gives a superb view of the high end finishing of caliber 1315.
Placed on the case side, it winds the mainspring. When pulled out, it also sets the time and the date. A screw-down crown increases water resistance and protects the movement…
Bezel
The bezel is particularly useful on diving watches, allowing you to check dive times. In this case, it unidirectionally rotates and usually comes in two parts: a metal (or ceramic,…
Rotor
Part of an automatic watch that winds the mainspring by constantly rotating. Depending on the watch's winding capability, movement design, and value, it comes in various geometries, sizes, and materials.…
Power Reserve
A mechanical watch feature displays, on the dial or the case back, the remaining power in a watch movement, showing the length of time until the timepiece must be rewound.
Case
It encases the mechanical movement and is crafted in one or more parts. It can also be a single piece, as with some professional diving watches, or made of unconventional…