28 August 2014 | Leroy , 30 minutes on the wrist

30 minutes on the wrist

The Leroy Osmior Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

A second time visit of a Leroy on Horbiter is dedicated to the Osmior collection. Osmior is the name Montres L.Leroy has given to its complicated timepieces, if you just do not include any of those made in very limited edition or, else, on request. It is hence the name that in the brand's history identifies a special proprietary alloy made out mainly of gold, featuring a color that vaguely resembles platinum. With an Osmior, Leroy interprets three traditional complications: the Single Push-Piece Chrono, the Tourbillon and a Retrograde Perpetual Calendar. The Leroy Osmior Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is a Horbiter's exclusive, just very few pieces have been made now and even less are available in Italy.

It is an example of super classic watchmaking, boasting an aristocratic hallmark where the calendar date is indicated via a central retrograde blue hand that sweeps over a gold dial, hand-guillochè worked on the inner part. The precious material, I mean gold, is on spot in this timepiece when compared to other brands' attitude in making gold watches. In this sense, it is quite unique: further proof may be found in the moon phase disks made in gold as well. The result is a round case that, paired with the regular design of the carrure, makes it look like a small gold bar.

The movement, caliber L411.2, automatic, is 27mm wide, has the balance wheel vibrating at 4Hz, a power reserve greater than 48 hours thanks to a double barrel design and its bridges are Cotes de Geneve finished. The winding rotor too is in gold and features, in the middle, a 22ct oscillanting weight engraved with the double L, standing for L.Leroy. It is encased into a 41mm wide case, with a black alligator strap and a tang buckle.

Leroy has created a classic perpetual calendar retailed at 53.400€, competitively priced, with a historical name; an authority in the history of high-end French watchmaking. Its aim is to break connoisseurs' heart and has among its pluses the fact of being an independent watchmaker, that so as not to follow the line of thinking behind big watchmaking groups and may operate as a sort of an atelier.

It is therefore attractive, in my opinion, especially as it represents the legacy of fine watchmaking. Something might be done I think when it comes to its design, and choices that could let it really rise above the rest. Design is subjective but, when technical excellence and craftsmanship are a given, what drives your choice is a design that takes your breath away.

(Photo-credit: Horbiter's proprietary photo-shooting)

Gaetano C. @Horbiter - Watches & Luxury

TWITTER @GaetanoCimmino

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