Rolex new releases 2023 at Watches and Wonders

Here are, finally, the Rolex new releases for 2023.

The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona

The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona celebrates its 60th anniversary this year and comes with upgrades rather than new models. After all, you won’t change an icon, right?

The collection has often undergone relentless but slight evolution, and Rolex has gone for continuous improvement, making its most wanted timepieces more appealing.

The dial has undergone a careful redesign, with new hour markers and counter rings, the aim being an enhanced chromatic contrast between registers, surrounding rings and the dial as a whole.

The case has been slightly redesigned, too; for example, the lugs have undergone minor tweaks like smoother edges and a more refined, luxurious geometry. The outcome is enhanced lightness compared to the outgoing collection and a more contemporary look and feel; the Cerachrom ceramic bezel now holds an outer ring crafted in the same material as the case itself.

Most importantly, the Cosmograph Daytona now adopts the renewed calibre 4131, housing the Chronergy escapement (like a 3230, for instance), thus considerably reducing energy loss; there is the Paraflex shock absorber paired with ball bearings to optimize the self-winding mechanism. The new Daytona’s calibre comes with a skeletonized oscillating weight and bridge decoration with the brand’s new Rolex Côtes de Genève.

Cosmograph Daytona Platinum 950

The Oyster Perpetual Cosmograph Daytona is also available in the much-admired 950 platinum version, offering the signature ice blue dial and dark brown ceramic bezel. The 18ct yellow gold oscillating weight is visible across the transparent sapphire case-back.

Here is the first time Rolex adopts a see-through case back on the Daytona (it is not the first see-through case ever on a Rolex watch).

It is clear how the Swiss brand has stepped up in finishing, as exemplified by the brand-new Perpetual 1908, whose description follows.

The new Perpetual 1908 model

The new Rolex Perpetual 1908 model is unexpected and defined by Rolex as “the new face of excellence”, paying tribute to the brand’s historical roots as a pioneer of innovation and watchmaking breakthroughs. The new collection draws inspiration from a 1931 Oyster Perpetual model, and “1908” is the year of the official foundation while opening new horizons for the brand.

The Perpetual 1908’s design is quintessentially classic with several contemporary takes, like the applied Arabic numerals at 3, 9 and 12, and a small seconds counter at 6. It comes in an 18 ct yellow or white gold case, whose see-through case lets you admire the movement’s finishes.

The new Rolex 7140 calibre is the heart of the Perpetual 1908; here is a self-winding movement designed from the ground up, equipped with a Siloxy hairspring, a Chronergy escapement and an anti-shock Paraflex mechanism.

While the case is exceptionally thin (about one-third as thin as an ordinary Oyster Perpetual), Rolex has not doubled down on performance. The movement ensures a 66-hour power reserve when fully wound paired with excellent performance (-2/+2 seconds per day accuracy), as proved by the Superlative Chronometer certification.

Finally, the new Dualclasp in 18-carat yellow or white gold allows you to easily open and close it while smoothly adapting to most wrists.

In our opinion, Rolex is willing to replace the Cellini with an entirely new and more refined collection aimed at competing with the likes of a Patek Calatrava.

The Yacht-Master 42 in Titanium RLX

The Oyster Perpetual Yacht-Master 42 is the second titanium watch after the Deep Sea Challenge‘s reveal and fosters the YM’s awareness as a multi-purpose sports watch.

The titanium alloy drastically reduces overall weight while preserving the fit and finish you’d expect on any professional Rolex watch. The model combines mirror-polished touch on crown protectors, bezel grooves and lugs’ profiles with a satin finish, offering a greyish, technical look.

This new model was expected after the prototype was spotted on Ben Ainslie’s wrist during a sailing session.

Compared to that prototype, the bracelet comes in Titanium RLX, with a massive satin finish and the 5 mm extension guaranteed by the Easylink quick-extension mechanism. Furthermore, ceramic inserts in the links improve comfort and ensure the watch is more resistant to wear over a long time. If you want to discover more about the Yacht-Master, please read our guide.

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller update

The Oyster Perpetual Sky-Dweller is the ideal watch for frequent travellers, thanks to the two time zones and the annual calendar. Continuous improvement also concerns Sky-Dweller, with mainly aesthetic changes and an approach similar to the one followed for the Daytona.

White 18-karat gold predominates throughout the range, accompanied by a black dial or unique and exclusive colours: a refined mint green and an elegant blue-green.

A characteristic element of the Sky-Dweller is the Saros calendar, which is simple to read and adjust; it requires corrections once a year, between February and March.

The main element of the complication is the Ring-Command system which allows you to activate and adjust the various functions by rotating the bezel.

Lastly, the calibre 9002, one of the most complex movements developed by Rolex, allows for displaying two time zones in a 24-hour format.

Among the product’s novelties are the Rolex calibre 9002, which replaces the Rolex 9001, housing a Chronergy escapement, the Paraflex shock absorber and a new oscillating weight with new ball bearings.

The new versions of the GMT-Master 2

The GMT-Master 2 now comes with new material combos and a two-tone bezel. They are 18-karat yellow gold and yellow Rolesor variants, exclusively available with a Jubilee bracelet.

The Cerachrom disc comes in grey and black ceramic for the first time.

As with any other GMT-Master 2, you can simultaneously measure up to three time zones, thanks to the bidirectional rotating bezel.

Here is the new Explorer 40

Please welcome the new 40 mm Explorer.

The new 40 mm large edition fills the gap left by the much-loved 39 mm model’s phase-out. Interestingly, Rolex is going in the opposite market direction and increasing its watches’ size.

The full-satin finishing makes this rugged, no-frills timepiece so sought after, and we’re sure the new 40 mm Explorer will be no different, pleasing those unable to get themselves the old (but gold) 39 mm model.

Legibility is excellent in dark environments, thanks to the enhanced Chromalight performance introduced with the new collection.

The Oyster Perpetual Bubble

The Oyster Perpetual 31, 36 and 41 are a funny, pop take on the Oyster Perpetual template. The dial features all the colours adopted by Rolex across the range in 2020, i.e. candy pink, light turquoise, yellow, coral red and green.

If we exclude this colourful take, the watch is utterly classic in form and function and destined to become an icon; Rolex has quietly declared it won’t produce too many Bubbles for too long. Let’s expect the waiting list to have grown as soon as Watched and Wonders is over.

Here are the main technical differences between smaller and larger models: the Oyster Perpetual 31 houses the 2232 calibre (hence the movement equipped with Siloxy hairspring), while the Oyster Perpetual 36 and 41 adopt the 3230 calibres. The former ensures a total 55-hour power reserve. The other ones, equipped with a blue Parachrom hairspring and Chronergy escapement, offer a power reserve of 70 hours.

The luxurious new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36 watches

Here are some top-of-the-line new Oyster Perpetual Day-Date 36, whose dials are decorated with precious stones. The colours, green aventurine, carnelian and turquoise, recall the natural shades of the waters of the Mediterranean and its coasts, according to the brand.

Such Day-Date 36 models come in three options: one in Everose gold with a green aventurine dial and a crystallized surface. The second one comes in 18-karat yellow gold and adopts an orange-looking carnelian dial. The last one is crafted in 18-karat white gold and adopts a turquoise dial.

We can’t stop mentioning the beauty of the President bracelet, in gold or 950 platinum, designed exclusively for the Oyster Perpetual Day-Date since 1956 and still adopted on the Day-Date and the Datejust.

Equipped with the hidden Crown clasp that opens elegantly through the Rolex-shaped lever, these models are the pinnacle of Rolex offerings and cult models among Rolex collectors.

The Rolex Day Date 36 Puzzle

The Rolex Puzzle was the biggest surprise alongside the Rolex Bubble. The brand has proved its skills and craftsmanship on the Rolex model par excellence, “the President’s watch”, by creating three new models in white, yellow or gold cases, showcasing a champlevé dial.

The latter reproduces a puzzle whose pieces are coloured in light turquoise, red, fuchsia, orange, green or yellow, fitting into each other and placed over a flat and coloured background.

The Day-Date Puzzle was one of the most discussed timepieces during Watches and Wonders and polarized the audience. The watch pairs such a dial with a specific date window where the words “Happy”, “Eternity”, “Gratitude”, “Peace”, “Faith”, “Love”, and “Hope” replace the days. Finally, the standard indexes are replaced by ten baguette-cut sapphires of six different colours.

Pictured above is the whole collection. You won’t find the Day-Date Puzzle on the official website; it is usually reserved for selected customers and available on request.

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(Photo credit: Rolex)

Editorial team @Horbiter®