Introducing the Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni watches

A century after Orologeria Svizzera opened its doors in Florence, Panerai is marking the anniversary of the boutique that began its story.

The Italian-born brand has long been linked to the country’s military and maritime history. Before becoming a global luxury-watch brand, Panerai supplied the Italian Navy with a long list of precision instruments, with wristwatches as a key—though not exclusive—part of that supply. That history remains the foundation of this unique brand within the Richemont Group.

Panerai has operated as a commercial watch brand since September 10, 1993, making the date equally important for celebrating the Florence boutique’s centennial and unveiling two new timepieces.

An in-boutique exhibition, running from September 10 through 19, introduces two commemorative watches and underscores the direction Emmanuel Perrin has set for the brand since he was appointed CEO.

After taking the helm, he has worked relentlessly to reconnect Panerai with the principles that defined its modern success: a rare mix of early Panerai purity and current design trends.

For 2026, the year of the Luminor, come the Panerai Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni PAM01734 and PAM01794—executed in Platinumtech™ and steel, respectively. One is ultra-limited; the other is produced in a thousand-piece quantity.

44 mm, Cushion Case, Eight-Day Hand-Wound Movement

The product’s appeal comes from two key elements. First is the cushion-shaped case, introduced during the Angelo Bonati era under the Luminor 1950 moniker. Second is the 44 mm diameter, a size that had previously appeared with this architecture primarily on self-winding models and more contemporary case designs.

Fitting that 44 mm cushion case with Panerai’s hand-wound P.5000 calibre, capable of an eight-day power reserve, each model embodies the most faithful Panerai philosophy. Until last year, this case profile was mostly exclusive to 47 mm models.

The smaller size makes the watch suitable for a wider audience, while the 47 mm models are my favourite and the most well-proportioned cushion-shaped Luminor.

Two Limited Editions, and a shared product philosophy

The commemorative collection goes beyond a new case-and-movement pairing. Both dials carry the name “FIRENZE,” a purposeful choice yet not a first for Panerai in recent history.

Collectors may recall the PAM00605, a Luminor 1950 that celebrated Panerai’s hometown. These new watches revisit that concept, downsized to 44 mm, while reinforcing their nod to the historic Reference 6152/1, as the models introduced at Watches and Wonders did.

The outcome is a couple of references with a shared layout but slightly distinct identities. The PAM01734 is made in Platinumtech™, Panerai’s proprietary platinum alloy; the PAM01794 is stainless steel.

Both are powered by the P.5000. The platinum PAM01734 has a sapphire display back and is water-resistant to 100 meters, while the steel PAM01794 has a solid caseback and 300-meter water resistance.

The platinum model also introduces an unexpected crown-protecting bridge silhouette. According to Panerai, it draws on historical experiments intended to make the device easier to operate.

I think that the brand is exploring new ideas that we could soon see on future Luminor timepieces.

Each dial bears a tone-on-tone “PANERAI FIRENZE.” The watches differ in dial colour rather than texture: green for the PAM01734 and black-grey for the PAM01794. Both feature a circular-brushed finish.

A similar dial text already appeared on the platinum watch in the Radiomir Viaggio nel Tempo box set. The lack of a date display, the sandwich-dial construction, and the domed sapphire crystal create a clean, symmetrical presentation that Panerai purists will love.

The PAM01734’s display back reveals the movement, while the PAM01794’s solid back feels more appropriate for an instrument watch. It is engraved with the entrance to the historic Piazza San Giovanni boutique, a stylish, elegant detail that strengthens the edition’s commemorative character.

Retail Prices and First Thoughts

Panerai will build 1,000 pieces of the steel PAM01794, which should be enough to meet strong demand. It is priced at €10,700.

The Platinumtech™ PAM01734 is limited to 100 pieces and priced at €55,000. It is a handsome watch, though a solid caseback might have better matched the P. 5000’s character: this movement was designed for durability and an extended power reserve, not decoration.

Both Luminor Firenze 8 Giorni models are thoughtfully executed, with slender lines and lovely details. However, if I had to buy one, I would also consider a 47 mm PAM01735 with the P.3000 calibre, which is priced similarly.

At €55,000, the platinum reference again has an in-house competitor: the watch costs as much as a Radiomir Perpetual Calendar. The watches aren’t directly comparable; still, the latter brings a high complication into the equation.

As a seasoned Panerai collector, I’ll ask you this: would you go for a P.5000 or P.3000? Would you choose forty-seven millimetres or 44? Or, finally, would you choose restrained purity and platinum or rose gold and a perpetual calendar?

(Photo credit: Panerai)