Intro

The 2027 America’s Cup will take place in Italy, in the Gulf of Naples. It means that Luna Rossa has a unique opportunity to fight back and rise to the top of the competition on home soil.

It also represents a chance for Panerai, the Italian-founded and Swiss-owned watch brand, to strengthen its renewed partnership with Luna Rossa and preview two new models ahead of the 2027 sailing campaign.

Both products belong to the Luminor collection and virtually identify two different categories of buyers while holding to the brand’s most iconic collection.

Quintessentially Panerai: the Luminor Luna Rossa PAM 01653

I appreciate and have always admired the brand’s mechanical complications, but there’s no Panerai without a base Luminor, which once set the brand’s foundations.

While a Luminor 1950 case silhouette, such as a 422 or 1628, remains my first option, the contemporary 44 mm case is a successful template for any contemporary collab watch execution.

The Luminor Luna Rossa PAM 01653 is the second iteration of a Luna Rossa-badged Luminor, following the introduction of the opening model with a white dial ahead of the 37th America’s Cup, whose market success was and still is high.

As we approach the 38th America’s Cup, Panerai’s designers adopted a similar yet more sober colour combination, showcasing Luna Rossa’s corporate colours.

The grey dial, whose Pantone is 100% Luna Rossa from the looks of the things, is more compliant and makes the watch less funky yet more sophisticated.

Powered by the hand-wound in-house P6000 calibre, the reference PAM01653 features some product improvements introduced with the latest Luminor Marina collection, like the AISI 316 LVM – 1.4441 steel, whose specifications outperform a standard 316L.

We greatly appreciate the upgrade, as will those looking for details, which proves Panerai’s commitment to upgrading its product offering at a rapid pace.

The Luminor Luna Rossa PAM01653 retails for 6,700 euros. It is not a limited edition model. Still, Panerai will guarantee a limited annual production batch until it will eventually phase it out.

Welcome back: the Luminor Chrono Flyback Luna Rossa PAM 01654

Things upscale with the Flyback model, which shares the same colour combination as the base model. The outcome is a pleasantly stylish sports watch, welcoming a second Flyback chronograph in titanium to the Luminor collection.

Thanks, Luna Rossa, for a new iteration in titanium of the Luminor Chrono Flyback, the most attractive and technically pleasing chronograph ever made by Panerai.

Despite adopting a vintage “Luminor 1950” case, the satin finish and matching Luna Rossa colours make it a handy tool for Luna Rossa crew members.

The signature grey and red Luna Rossa corporate colours turn the Flyback Chrono into a sporty yet elegant timepiece, complemented by a hybrid strap featuring a red “Luna Rossa” strip on a grey base.

Measuring 44 mm in diameter, the case is as light as titanium gets and far more comfortable than its Luminor Luna Rossa sibling.

Powered by Panerai P9100 calibre, here comes the first-ever chronograph movement developed by Panerai, equipped with a column wheel and Flyback function.

Housing two barrels, it is capable of providing a convenient three-day power reserve. Panerai will produce a unique batch of 150 pieces, each priced at €15,900.

Final thoughts

Next month, we will be testing the Luminor Luna Rossa PAM 01653, not the Flyback, as the first samples are not yet available.

When looking back at the previous Luna Rossa collections, the new Panerai Luna Rossa collaboration models stand among the most significant since the partnership began.

The latest releases feel like a U-turn for the brand, which has gone all in with the Luminor collection, featuring two models dedicated to the most devoted Panerai fans and opting for steel or titanium instead of composite materials.

The PAM01653 is the new entry point to the Luna Rossa collection, building on a base model that has been carefully transformed into a “collab watch”.

While watches of this kind may lose their appeal as the competition is over, the colour combination is sober enough to avoid diluting the Luminor Marina’s original pedigree.

The Flyback Chronograph exemplifies the Luna Rossa and Panerai partnership well, and the two-tone scheme makes it a lovely limited-edition model to own.

Additionally, a thin, polished bezel contrasts with the extended satin finish to provide a slightly classic touch.

Price-wise, such partnerships usually end up in consistent mark-ups of the base price. Still, they’re not sitting afar from the baseline despite wearing the Luna Rossa badge.

(Photo credit: Panerai)

Giovanni Maria Di Biase @Horbiter®