Introduction

At Baselworld 2013, Seiko introduced a contemporary re-edition of the glorious Grand Seiko 44GS, which set the “Grammar of Design” rules to mark 100 years of Seiko watchmaking.

Released in four variations, as faithful to the 1967 model as possible, that model came in extremely low quantities. In particular, the white, yellow and rose gold models totalled 70 pieces each and the steel option 700 numbered pieces instead.

Try searching for one of the following references: SBGW043, SBGW044, SBGW046, or SBGW047. Despite the watch business’s current struggles, you will discover it is hard to find one. If you find one, you will hardly pay the original price.

Eleven years in the making, Grand Seiko strikes back with a similar re-edition, based on the equally legendary 1968 45 GS, i.e., the brand’s take on high frequency and a hand-wound movement.

SLGW004 and SLGW005: Grand Seiko revives the 45GS

The unexpected debut of a 45 GS contemporary model is a call to action for any enthusiast, and we will not be surprised to discover that the 2013 iteration’s success triggered the current one.

As an outcome, here is a pair of gold or steel timepieces set to become head turners and foster brand awareness through the Heritage collection.

The 45 GS is, as said, synonymous with ten beats per second. Over the last eleven years, the brand has grown so much that the newcomer’s leap towards the 2013 edition is giant, exemplified by the good Grand Seiko 9S64 calibre as opposed to the industry-leading 9SA4.

This is why Grand Seiko introduced the SLGW002 and SLGW003 at Watches and Wonders before releasing the SLGW004 and SLGW005 references.

Zaratsu polishing reaches new heights.

Its distinctive design sets the 45GS (and the 44GS) apart from the competition. The combination of flat, polished, brushed surfaces, sharp edges, and equally short lugs makes it easily recognisable. Add some historical touches, and there you have it: a must-have for the brand’s fans, sure to attract vintage lovers and new customers.

The yellow gold model has a white cream dial paying homage to the original. Both adopt an eye-catching glass box covering the 1968 logos: SEIKO on top, GS at the bottom with “Hi-Beat” and “36,000”, and the legendary Daini Seikosha lighting bolt logo, celebrating where the first Grand Seiko 45GS was manufactured 56 years ago.

Nostalgia on the outside. Contemporary on the inside.

The 1968 Grand Seiko 45 GS featured a solid caseback with a GS medallion. Flip the case over, and you will see that the 9SA4 calibre is not hidden. Here is the most technically advanced and top-performing hand-wound movement in the 10,000 Euro area.

The case seamlessly houses the calibre (you can see it by the thin ring surrounding it), is 10.4 mm thick (hence 0.9 mm thicker than the Evolution 9 case model equipped with the same mechanical movement), and extends up to 38.8 mm. The case profile is curved as opposed to an original 45GS square one.

We extensively described the 9SA4 calibre when introducing the 2024 new products in April. Check that content if you are eager to discover more. Here are a few specs that deserve the headlines: a double-impulse escapement (it helps reach an eighty-hour power reserve) and a free-sprung balance.

Final thoughts

Grand Seiko will manufacture 1,200 SLGW005 and 200 SLGW004 pieces. The steel model is produced in quantities high enough to meet the high demand we expect from the brand’s admirers, this duo’s primary target audience.

A retail price of 10,400 Euros is fair for what you get, but perhaps slightly high if you aim to attract new followers.

The gold option exceeds the 32,000 Euros threshold and is the most compelling 45GS re-edition. However, we expect the brand to further distinguish gold and steel models, especially in product finish and movement materials.

Thumbs down to the Grand Seiko logo applied on the caseback’s sapphire crystal, an add-on we would remove from any Limited Edition GS model.

(Photo credit: Grand Seiko)

Giovanni Maria Di Biase @Horbiter®