Accutron Legacy 505
I'll rank Accutron among the most, if not the most, extraordinary projects launched in watchmaking in 2020. Revamped and re-introduced as a stand-alone brand, the old-school tuning-fork technology has been replaced by a new patented electrostatic movement, powering the cutting-edge Accutron Spaceview 2020. As a result, watch enthusiasts can now count on an additional option to mechanical, quartz, Eco-Drive, or Spring Drive technologies. In my opinion, Accutron deserves the "rookie of the year" award, from a branding standpoint, or "comeback of the year," from a Bulova Accutron fan perspective instead.
As far as the name Accutron, which means "Accuracy through electronics," concerns, it's hard to associate it with anything different from a tuning-fork timepiece, even with a 2020 Spaceview. The latest iteration is a league of its own, despite sharing an approach that has more to do with electronics and nothing at all with a standard mechanical timepiece instead; in contrast, the new Accutron Legacy collection has an original Bulova Accutron feel to it while gearing towards an audience that loves the brand's style rather than its unique technology. Gone are the days where the space missions were in the headlines, and so were the timing instruments manufactured by the American brand in their endeavor to help American astronauts land on the moon. Today's audience is rather sixties and seventies fashion victims eager to buy the latest vintage accessories and modern re-issues, including a wristwatch.
I think the aforementioned is the new Legacy collection's territory. The new Accutron Legacy model 505's forerunner is a 1965 Bulova Accutron timepiece sporting an Alpha-shaped case, so ubiquitous in the original product offering; replace the tuning-fork caliber, and you'll end up getting an automatic Legacy 505, available in the two product references pictured here. The externally-sourced self-winding movement equips a 33mm big and 12,3mm tall Alpha-shaped case, conceived to appeal to him and her equally, with women sitting in the first place if I had to judge by the overwhelming comments I have received while uncovering the new timepieces to a group of friends.
Dial and case are the guest stars; each model feels Accutron unmistakably and offers excellent build quality: logo and wording are embossed and paired with applied arrow-shaped indexes and multi-faceted hour and minute dauphine-shaped hands on top. The Accutron Legacy 505 masterfully blends a quintessential Accutron foothold with Art Déco and Liberty styles. Add a narrow, vintage-looking leather strap, and it looks like you're discovering an old timepiece handed down from one generation to another.
I do not fully understand, from a strategic product placement standpoint, why did the guys in the marketing department opt for a mechanical caliber (a Sellita SW200) when you're moving upmarket, and you claim states, "it's not a timepiece, it's a conversation piece." I swear they did what they had done when they introduced Bulova Accutron back then. In contrast, I believe the new Legacy 505, retailing at one-third of a Spaceview's price, comes as the "bread and butter" of the 2020 Accutron's proposition addressed, as stated above, to those who are not Accutron die-hard fans but newcomers.
I indeed love the case and dial's style; it is exquisite: the two crossing lines, the cambered dial, and the lugs mimicking a tuning fork give this automatic watch a feel as unique as it is not odd-looking. I'm curious to determine whether the brand's roadmap includes a larger variant, hopefully as big as the 2010 Bulova Accutron 50th Anniversary, powered by the new electrostatic movement. Available in either a steel or gold-colored steel case, the Accutron Legacy model 505 2SW6A001 and 2SW7A003 retail for 1,290 Euros and 1,350 Euros, respectively, and will come as a one-off run of 600 pieces each. More information on the Accutronwatch website.
(Photo credit: Marco Antinori for Horbiter®)
Gaetano C @Horbiter®