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How hard is it to make a mark in luxury watchmaking today? Kind of challenging, and that’s what Bell & Ross did in the nineties by introducing the first-ever aviation-instrument-inspired wristwatch. Back then, large-sized timepieces were trendy (as exemplified by trend-setting brand par excellence Panerai), and BR instruments paved the way for the brand and new, unseen squared-shaped wrist instruments.
Today’s scenario is a different story. Mainstream brands face a downturn while collectors increase their interest in smaller, sophisticated all-around timepieces. Today as then, most wearers’ wrists are too small for squared-cased watches, and most buyers are encouraged to buy less controversial or polarizing styles; in short, appreciating a source of inspiration won’t end up with purchasing the final product. Here is the product philosophy behind the BR 05, in our opinion.
The Bell & Ross BR 05 collection was successful beyond expectation; while not as bold as a BR 03, it subtly preserves the “circle within the square” brand’s DNA topped by a four-screwed-in bezel, a Bell & Ross’ foothold in ages. The new Bell & Ross BR-X5 collection steps things up by adding relevant changes, first and foremost from a technical perspective, which ends with turning Bell & Ross into a more premium, sophisticated brand.
We have got our hands on almost any new BR models over the years, with the BR 03 under the spotlight, and we have often outlined how the French brand’s high build quality was missing a mechanical counterpart as appealing as a colored ceramic case or a skeletonized dial. The new BR X5 squares the circle, opening a new chapter for Bell & Ross moving forward. Let’s expect the new technical package to equip more models (and possibly a renewed BR 03) anytime soon.
The letter X stands for “Experimental” as long as Bell & Ross is concerned; the new collection offers a sandwich or multi-layer platform including case sections and a flat screwed-in bezel on top, paired with a midsection whose hollowed design mixes brushed and polished lines either on the inner circle or case profile. I love the squared crown-protecting shoulders; they mimic Chrono pushers and add to the bold, one-piece-looking case design.
The headline news is a new calibre, coded as BR 323, and marked as “manufactured”. Specs sheet aside, look at the dial, and you’ll spot a power reserve indicator totaling three days. The new Bell & Ross BR-X5 houses the COSC-certified calibre engineered by Kenissi (owned by Tudor) and customized according to Bell & Ross requirements. It is sturdy and reliable to ensure a five-year full warranty.
The Bell & Ross BR-X5 case measures 41 mm across (1 mm larger than a BR 05) and is 12,8 mm thick, which is acceptable for a luxury sports watch designed to withstand a 100-meter pressure underwater. From a pure design perspective, the dial’s layout improves the BR 05 in many respects: the large power reserve gauge on the left looks pleasant and useful, and the altimeter-looking date window is a nod to the brand’s aviation pedigree, making the whole package more compelling and appealing.
The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange
The new collection includes a flagship model, too. Here is the Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange adopting a mixed titanium-and-carbon-fibre case, whose core module, crown protectors included, is in micro-blasted grade 2 titanium treated with DLC (Diamond Like Carbon). The first layer of carbon fibre replaces the standard steel bezel. Steel is adopted to craft the folding buckle, then “blackened” (and hardened) via a DLC surface treatment.
Two carbon fibre plates surround the case’s upper and lower parts, including the fully-integrated lugs that fastened the orange rubber strap, the only available option. Case and thickness are the same as on the steel model, while the watch saves much weight. The timepiece is 100-meter water-resistant too. A smoked sapphire case back complements the high-tech darkish look and feel.
A quick look at the watch’s exploded view allows us to identify all the parts front to back. The gasket placed between the bezel and case (the tiny orange ring pictured above) is the same as on the steel models. The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange’s retail price proves how ambitious is the latest generation BR series; let’s expect further range extensions. It’ll cost 11,900 Euros.
Price list and thoughts
Bell & Ross launched four options and two dial colors. Here is the complete list:
- Bell & Ross BR-X5 Black Steel on rubber strap – price 6.900 Euro
- Bell & Ross BR-X5 Black Steel on bracelet – price 7.400 Euro
- Bell & Ross BR-X5 Ice Blue Steel on rubber strap – price 6.900 Euro
- Bell & Ross BR-X5 Ice Blue Steel on bracelet – price 7.400 Euro
The rubber strap mimics long-gone ISOFRANE diving straps. Along with the black dial model (our choice), the brand adds an exotic option named “Ice Blue”, but we believe that’s just the start of a journey; Bell & Ross has pleased us with several styles and technical options; it won’t be any different from what we expected with the BR 05.
The price list is a whopping 2,500 euros over a BR05, like for like; Bell & Ross is stepping up, and the new BR X5 is the ultimate proposition in a fiercely-competitive product category. Thumbs up for build quality, performance, and comfort; nevertheless, we would have gone for a more competitive price point at launch.
The Bell & Ross BR-X5 Carbon Orange is a reasonably different proposition: produced in a one-off edition of 500 pieces (available as of February 2023), it offers unique features and superior comfort, like for like. The retail price is close to 12,000 euros, a premium price point; let’s wait and see the public’s response.
(Photo credit: Bell & Ross)
Editorial Team @Horbiter®
