{"id":30378,"date":"2021-10-19T15:35:54","date_gmt":"2021-10-19T15:35:54","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/?p=30378"},"modified":"2023-12-10T09:25:44","modified_gmt":"2023-12-10T08:25:44","slug":"king-seiko-and-quest-excellence-our-expert-andrea-luddi","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/king-seiko-and-quest-excellence-our-expert-andrea-luddi\/","title":{"rendered":"King Seiko and the quest for excellence, by our expert Andrea Luddi"},"content":{"rendered":"

It all started with a quest for excellence.<\/h2>\n
\n

In\u00a01960<\/strong>,\u00a0Suwa Seikosha<\/strong>\u00a0unveiled their first\u00a0Grand Seiko Chronometer<\/strong>, named\u00a0\u201cThe First\u201d<\/em>; the\u00a0GSJ 14070<\/strong>\u00a0equipped with the glorious\u00a0calibre 3180<\/strong>. The\u00a0calibre 3180<\/strong>\u00a0ensured a running accuracy\u00a0within +12 and -3 seconds per day<\/strong>\u00a0and a\u00a045-hour maximum power reserve<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

It was the first-ever Japanese wristwatch to meet the standards set by the\u00a0Bureaux Officiels de Contr\u00f4le de la Marche des Montres<\/strong>. A year later,\u00a0Daini Seikosha<\/strong>\u00a0revealed their first high-end\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>, the\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>. The latter was also acclaimed as\u00a0\u201cThe First\u201d<\/em>\u00a0by enthusiasts, despite not providing any \u201cChronometer\u201d certification.<\/p>\n

Back then, here is the story of the quest for excellence between two\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0factories, whose common goal was to craft the best possible Japanese watch, either in performance and refinement. Once placed one alongside the other, both timepieces are closer to each other, much more than you\u2019d expect.<\/p>\n

From Seiko News n \u00b0 39 \u2013 1961<\/h2>\n

Pictured below is an excerpt from the\u00a01961 Seiko News magazine, no. 39<\/strong>, announcing the launch of a new premium watch, the\u00a0King<\/strong>\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>. While both factories within\u00a0Seiko Corp<\/strong>. aimed at engineering no other than the \u201cperfect watch\u201d, the\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u2018s mission was somewhat different, in that it offered premium luxury watch quality at a more affordable price point than its\u00a0Grand Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0sibling (photo credit:\u00a0www.egalizer.hu).<\/p>\n

\"1961<\/p>\n

Here is why you won\u2019t find any date display or hacking on any first release or a chronometer certification, despite the tests carried out at the\u00a0Kameido<\/strong>\u00a0factory ensuring a close-to-chronometer standard.<\/p>\n

An excerpt from the\u00a01963<\/strong>\u00a0brochure showcasing either the\u00a0Grand Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0and the\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0\u201cThe First\u201d<\/em>\u00a0proves how different the price point was (photo credit: Adventures in Amateur Watch Fettling).<\/p>\n

\"1963<\/p>\n

Unlike the first\u00a0GS<\/strong>, the first\u00a0KS<\/strong>\u00a0features a \u201cflat\u201d, not \u201cconvex\u201d dial (it was the first-ever Seiko to adopt such design), the\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0naming is printed and less refined than the engraved one found on the\u00a0GSJ 14070<\/strong>\u00a0instead (which turned to \u201cCarved\u201d, \u201cRaised\u201d and \u201cPrinted\u201d along the way).<\/p>\n

The dial is exclusively silvery and has a sunray finish, with the rarest\u00a0Seiko Liner<\/strong>\u00a0found on top-collectable pieces and came as an\u00a0AD<\/strong>\u00a0or\u00a0SD<\/strong>\u00a0variant. What do these acronyms stand for?<\/p>\n

Applique Dial and Special Dial<\/h2>\n

AD<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0SD<\/strong>\u00a0code two differently finished dials;\u00a0AD<\/strong>\u00a0stands for\u00a0\u201cApplique Dial\u201d<\/em>, while\u00a0SD<\/strong>\u00a0stands for\u00a0\u201cSpecial Dial\u201d<\/em>\u00a0instead. The\u00a0SD<\/strong>\u00a0adopts\u00a0solid 14k or 18k gold indexes<\/strong>\u00a0(in white or yellow Gold if you opted for steel or Gold filled case, respectively), while the first outcome comes with rhodium-plated indexes (steel case) or Gold plated (Gold Filled cases). You can easily recognize each dial by the hallmark placed at six, i.e.\u00a0a star with 6 or 8 points<\/strong>, respectively.<\/p>\n

\"king<\/p>\n

Designers drew clean and neat lines; the dial is broad, the lugs are straight and long while the indexes are faceted and finished to enhance depth and brightness; all these traits embody beauty according to Japanese standards.<\/p>\n

The case is either available in gold (100 and 80 microns Gold Filled) or steel and, despite adopting special gaskets, it is all but watertight. The crown is pressure-fastened and houses the\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>\u2018s\u00a0\u201cS\u201d<\/em>\u00a0in relief while offering large and smooth grooves for a better grip.<\/p>\n

\"king<\/p>\n

The case back is pressure-fastened, too, and carries the legendary\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u2018s shield, although you might jump into two designs depending on the Gold or steel case. On the first one, the coat of arms is embossed out of an applied gold medallion; in the second case, it is lightly engraved on the steel base.<\/p>\n

You won\u2019t find any additional inscriptions; reference number, serial number and any other detailing are on the case\u2019s inside, along with the first model\u2019s distinctive trait, as represented by the\u00a0\u201cTSURU\u201d<\/em>, which stands for\u00a0\u201cRed-crowned Crane\u201d<\/em>, a mark of longevity and happiness.<\/p>\n

\"king<\/p>\n

Let me highlight that\u00a0Tsuru<\/strong>\u00a0was not exclusive to\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0but appeared on previous\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0lines upon request by\u00a0Yoshikawa Tsuru<\/strong>, an engineer who played a pivotal role in the development of\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0after\u00a0World War II.<\/strong><\/p>\n

The calibre is hand-wound, it beats at\u00a018,000 vph<\/strong>, has\u00a025 jewels<\/strong>, adopts a\u00a0diashock device<\/strong>\u00a0and has a\u00a045-hour maximum power reserve<\/strong>. It also houses a fine adjustment system, yet it doesn\u2019t hack as mentioned above. Let\u2019s get straight to the point now; the first model came as a two-variant collection.<\/p>\n

By adopting\u00a0\u201cThe First\u201d<\/em>\u00a0moniker, we\u2019re, therefore, specifying not one but two\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0models, namely those coded as\u00a0KSJ 14102<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0KS 15034<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"king<\/p>\n

The\u00a0KSJ 14102<\/strong>\u00a0appeared in\u00a0August 1961<\/strong>\u00a0and was phased out towards the end of\u00a01963<\/strong>; the\u00a0KS 15034<\/strong>\u00a0was marketed in the autumn of\u00a01962<\/strong>\u00a0and then discontinued in the late\u00a01964<\/strong>\u2018s first half. Both models share the base specs sheet but slightly differ\u00a0in case size, shape and index\u2019s style.<\/p>\n

They equally offered a leather strap with pin buckle showcasing the\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0logo on top. Also, the pin buckle came in two options; the former was introduced in\u00a01961<\/strong>\u00a0and has a slightly curved shape with the logo in Italics; the latter, manufactured\u00a0between 1963 and 1968<\/strong>, has a more contemporary, squared-off design, with bold and in-capital-letters logo.<\/p>\n

In either case, the buckle alone is a must-have for any vintage\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0\u201cThe First\u201d\u00a0<\/em>and sells for over\u00a0100 euros<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"king<\/p>\n

The\u00a0KSJ 14<\/strong>\u00a0has a round, slim case with straight, long lugs with a square profile. The\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u2018s eldest son\u2019s design cues embody its high-end precursor\u2019s, the\u00a0Seiko Lord Marvel<\/strong>, measuring\u00a035mm<\/strong>\u00a0(37 with the crown) and offering a\u00a042 mm lug-to-lug<\/strong>, while the gap between two lugs stops at\u00a018 mm<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

The dial houses\u00a0\u201cshokuji\u201d<\/em>\u00a0applied indexes, whose central facet\u2019s polishing adds to the watch\u2019s brightness. At noon, the double applied baton index stands out. The\u00a0KS 15<\/strong>\u00a0comes in at\u00a035mm<\/strong>\u00a0across (38, crown included) and a\u00a043 mm<\/strong>\u00a0lug-to-lug<\/strong>, with a\u00a019 mm<\/strong>\u00a0gap between the lugs.<\/p>\n

\"king<\/p>\n

The lugs here are much more tapered and showcase a more refined front facet; here are the first examples of what we will then regard as\u00a0Taro Tanaka<\/strong>\u2018s signature\u00a0\u201cGrammar of design\u201d<\/em>. The\u00a0KS 15<\/strong>\u2018s dial also comes with applied indexes and a two-part index at twelve.<\/p>\n

Seiko: you never stop discovering<\/h2>\n

I hope you all enjoyed this story. When you explore the history of\u00a0Seiko<\/strong>, you never stop discovering new stories, as it happened when I found myself coming across the competition between\u00a0Suwa Seikosha<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0Daini Seikosha<\/strong>\u00a0in the brand\u2019s race to engineer no other than the perfect wristwatch.<\/p>\n

The rivalry between\u00a0King Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0and\u00a0Grand Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0ended up with Seiko Corp. finally establishing\u00a0Grand Seiko<\/strong>\u00a0as the Group\u2019s premium luxury brand, thus highlighting how paramount this competition was in raising the bar as a top-tier global watch manufacturer.<\/p>\n

(Photo credit: Horbiter\u00ae)<\/p>\n

Andrea Luddi @Horbiter\u00ae<\/p>\n<\/div>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It all started with a quest for excellence. In\u00a01960,\u00a0Suwa Seikosha\u00a0unveiled their first\u00a0Grand Seiko Chronometer, named\u00a0\u201cThe First\u201d; the\u00a0GSJ 14070\u00a0equipped with the glorious\u00a0calibre 3180. The\u00a0calibre 3180\u00a0ensured a running accuracy\u00a0within +12 and -3 seconds per day\u00a0and a\u00a045-hour maximum power reserve. It was the first-ever Japanese wristwatch to meet the standards set by the\u00a0Bureaux Officiels de Contr\u00f4le de la […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from King Seiko and the quest for excellence, by our expert Andrea Luddi<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":30376,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[549,560],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-30378","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-seiko","category-vintage-watches"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nKing Seiko and the quest for excellence<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Our Seiko expert helps us discover the story behind King Seiko, which the brand recently relaunched with a limited edition timepiece.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/king-seiko-and-quest-excellence-our-expert-andrea-luddi\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"King Seiko and the quest for excellence\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Our Seiko expert helps us discover the story behind King Seiko, which the brand recently relaunched with a limited edition timepiece.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/king-seiko-and-quest-excellence-our-expert-andrea-luddi\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Horbiter \u00e8 il magazine italiano sugli orologi di lusso. 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