{"id":26352,"date":"2020-04-14T06:00:09","date_gmt":"2020-04-14T06:00:09","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/a-glimpse-into-the-world-of-richard-mille-welcome-to-rocket-science-watchmaking\/"},"modified":"2021-11-26T15:21:16","modified_gmt":"2021-11-26T15:21:16","slug":"glimpse-into-the-world-of-richard-mille-report-horbiter","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/glimpse-into-the-world-of-richard-mille-report-horbiter\/","title":{"rendered":"A glimpse into the world of Richard Mille: welcome to rocket science watchmaking"},"content":{"rendered":"

Twenty years ago Richard Mille<\/strong> was a young brand in the world of haute horlogerie, but today it is his most authoritative representative in the hyper-watch sector and the only brand that was able to put together technology and performance that are worthy of the aerospace<\/strong> industry<\/strong> and the Formula 1<\/strong><\/span><\/a> world with historical complications. The main objective is that of guaranteeing an exceptional performance in exceptional conditions, like races on tracks, rallies, polo matches, tennis matches, and even high jump games.<\/p>\n

\"Richard-Mille-RM-11-03-JEAN-TODT-50-anniversary-4\"Richard Mille<\/strong> is the only brand to guarantee a full performance; so a trip to the place where its watches are designed and crafted is essential to properly understand how this mission is achieved.<\/p>\n

Travelling towards La Chaux de Fonds<\/h2>\n

The journey into the universe of the Richard Mille<\/strong> products officially takes place once a year (on occasion of the SIHH<\/strong> and, for the last time, in 2019<\/strong>) and, as far as the Italian market is concerned, also when some events are being organized by the Via della Spiga boutique <\/strong>in Milan<\/strong>. Visiting the manufacture\u00a0and the various laboratories, where cases, movements and watches are being assembled is a rare opportunity to fully understand\u00a0how watches that do not follow the rules of the most traditional haute horlogerie sector are being crafted.<\/p>\n

A successful industrial story \u2013 Valgine and Pro Art (and Audemars Piguet Renaud\u2019s and Papi\u2019s participation)\u00a0<\/h2>\n

If you are a follower of the Grand Prix<\/strong> you will have probably seen a Richard Mille<\/strong> wrapped around the wrists of Fernando Alonso<\/strong>, Charles Leclerc<\/strong>, Romain Grosjean<\/strong>, or Jean Todt<\/strong><\/span><\/a>, but how are watches that withstand exceptional accelerations, f<\/span>eature indestructible glasses<\/span><\/strong><\/a> and are capable of performances that no competitor is even remotely able to approach, being designed?<\/p>\n

\"Richard-Mille-RM-11-fm\"There are two industrial laboratories within the brand\u2019s center located in Les Breuleux<\/strong> (1,520<\/strong> inhabitants<\/strong> in the Jura Canton<\/strong>) where highly specialized staff follows all the designing, development and manufacturing activities \u2013 Valgine<\/strong> and Pro Art<\/strong>.\u00a0Valgine<\/strong>\u00a0was originally founded at the beginning of the 20th<\/sup> century by the Guenat<\/strong> family and is today completely integrated into Richard Mille<\/strong> for which it assembles movements.<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-factory-visit-2\"Pro Art<\/strong> was built five years ago to manufacture cases and bracelets, but these are not the only two laboratories of this brand. The technical\u00a0structure of Richard Mille<\/strong> also involves Audemars Piguet Renaud and Papi<\/strong> that can boast a great expertise in the crafting of ultra-complicated calibers, and that also manufactures tourbillons and double chronographs exclusively for Richard Mille<\/strong>. Valgine<\/strong>\u00a0has ancient origins \u2013 it crafted refined movements for pocket watches already at the beginning of last century, and it then turned to the crafting of wristwatches in the 20s and 30s to supply well-known brands like Longines\u00a0<\/strong>for example.<\/p>\n

Pro Art \u2013 where Richard Mille\u2019s famous tonneau case was first created<\/h2>\n

Trips to manufacturing facilities always follow a reverse path if compared to what you would expect \u2013 you start from the manufacturin process and then move upstream towards the development process, and our trip to Richard Mille<\/strong>\u2019s was no difference.<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-factory-visit-4\"Pro Art<\/strong> is the company designed to build cases and bracelets, like the titanium<\/strong> case<\/strong> that you can see in these pics that is crafted starting from an 80<\/strong>\u2013cm<\/strong>\u2013long<\/strong>\u2013titanium<\/strong>\u2013bar<\/strong> and that is only the first step in a long process that will transform a first mold into its final form. Since titanium is easily ignited when processed, oil jets<\/strong> with a temperature ranging between 23<\/strong>\u00b0C and 25<\/strong>\u00b0C continuously cool down the bar throughout the CNC<\/strong>-process, and the machining process is constantly supervised by the staff, even during the weekend.<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-case-side\"This is a characteristic that confirms the family nature of this company and the strong link between the territory and its people that is one of the cornerstones of the brand's success. Beyond pure and uninteresting figures that include microns and other technical details I think it is more important to emphasize that a Richard Mille<\/strong> watch is not a Swiss Made<\/strong> timepiece in the common sense of the word (a term that is often clich\u00e9d, been\u00a0emptied of its original meaning as some larger groups have unfortunately accustomed us to), but it is 99<\/strong>.6<\/strong>% Swiss<\/strong> Made<\/strong> instead. The remaining 0<\/strong>.4<\/strong>% (the crown and, in some cases, the chrono buttons too) comes from nearby suppliers located on the French border. This is the measure of the authentic<\/strong> Swiss Made<\/strong> and of what we could define as a \"zero km<\/strong>\" watch-making factory.<\/p>\n

The obsessive search for quality<\/h2>\n

The crafting process aims to achieve extremely rigorous machining tolerances. The rigor goes all the way to the end-customer delivery process because every new customer that, for example, picks up his\u00a0metal-made Richard Mille RM<\/strong> will immediately find out that a thin<\/strong> blue paint layer<\/strong> has been gently applied on to the rounded and polished edges of the case to protect those specific parts from scratches and bumps and the layer will only be removed once the watch has been finally delivered to its new owner. The cases crafted in NTPT\u00ae<\/strong> or in Quartz TPT\u00ae<\/strong> instead follow a completely different and dedicated process.<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-factory-visit-1\"Moreover, if you look at the complexity of an RM<\/strong> case, you should know that the number and variety of CNC<\/strong> machines used to craft the hollows and\u00a0the grooves all the way up to its final geometry are countless and they involve investments for several million euros.<\/p>\n

\"Richard-Mille-RM50-02-ACJ\"Richard Mille<\/strong> recently brought in-house the crafting of the ceramic parts of the case too \u2013 in the past this crafting process used to be entrusted to an external supplier, whereas nowadays it is performed in the Pro Art<\/strong> laboratories that manufacture even the smallest parts that make up a movement, replacing, due to size needs, the CNC<\/strong> machines for EDM<\/strong> machining processes.<\/p>\n

The lucky encounter with NTPT (North Thin Ply Technology)<\/h2>\n

Do you know how Richard Mille<\/strong> started using the North Thin Ply Technology<\/strong> composites? Years ago Richard<\/strong> got in touch with one of the managers of the NTPT\u00ae<\/strong> materials division \u2013 the company used to supply this composite to the America<\/strong>'s Cup Alinghi<\/strong> team<\/strong>. The manager asked \u2013 \"Why don\u2019t you try and use this technology on your watches? It would be an interesting experiment!\"<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-rm50-03-mc-laren-f1\"During the crafting of the first prototypes Richard<\/strong> Mille<\/strong> and Domique Guenat<\/strong> (the director of Valgine<\/strong>\u00a0and the last heir of the founding family of the Valgine<\/strong>\u00a0manufacturing company) were so happy with the result obtained that they immediately decided to adopt this new technology. However, to apply this same process for the crafting of the NTPT\u00ae<\/strong>\u00a0case watches too, the technique had to be replicated and industrially developed.<\/p>\n

\"Richard-Mille-RM-11-03-JEAN-TODT-50-anniversary-3\"In this process very thin sheets of NTPT\u00ae<\/strong> carbon fiber<\/strong> (between 600<\/strong> and 800<\/strong> sheets in total) soaked with epoxy resin (the \"matrix\" of a composite), are placed at 45<\/strong>\u00b0 one on top of the other<\/strong> (thus guaranteeing a full resistance to any direction, rather than along the orientation of the fibers only). The sheets are then compressed for at least six hours<\/strong>, then heated at a temperature of 120<\/strong>\u00b0 C and finally cut. The final result is a composite block that represents, among the composites, the equivalent of the first titanium case mold that is subsequently processed.<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-rm-67-02-automatic-high-jump-mutaz-barshim-3\"Thanks to the later adoption of the Quartz TPT\u00ae<\/strong> technology (that involves the addition of silicon to the composite) Richard Mille<\/strong> added colored pigments to the cases, thus making them extremely resistant to the UV rays and providing them with a different texture than that of any traditional carbon fiber composite. These cases are virtually indestructible.\u00a0<\/p>\n

Functions rather than style define every aspect of a Richard Mille watch \u2013 how the RM 67-02 was born<\/h2>\n

The development of each new watch follows an original approach \u2013 the function, rather than the design, defines the product. In the Research and Development<\/strong> department a single project manager is assigned to each watch \u2013 it goes from the first computer drawn line to the production phase. Unlike what happens in a large and vertical industrial company (the automotive industry for example) there is no PMO office<\/strong> (Project Management Office) that supervises the Project Managers<\/strong>, but each project manager reports directly to Richard Mille<\/strong> and Dominique<\/strong>\u00a0Guenat<\/strong> in a short responsibility line that guarantees a rapid decision-making process and nurtures the responsibility taking skills of every single Project Manager<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-factory-visit-3\"The same happened with the RM<\/strong> 67<\/strong>\u201302<\/strong>\u00a0Project Manager<\/strong>, whom we met and whose requirement was to guarantee that the new collection would offer a tangible improvement over the 67<\/strong>\u201301<\/strong> version. The RM 67<\/strong>\u201302<\/strong> was supposed to be sportier than the RM<\/strong> 67<\/strong>\u201301<\/strong> and thinner too (the function selector and the date module were removed from the caliber), and it was also supposed be exclusively crafted in Carbon\u00ae<\/strong> or Quartz TPT\u00ae<\/strong>.<\/p>\n

How long does it take to craft a Tourbillon? Six weeks, plus 3 weeks to assess the working precision. It then gets disassembled!<\/h2>\n

Tourbillons are so different from each other \u2013 even within the same manufactory \u2013 that making comparisons between two solutions could prove risky. The one described below is the process used by Richard Mille<\/strong> for the assembling and tuning phase of the calibres with a tourbillon; it takes six weeks<\/strong> to assemble the movement that will be then let run for the next three weeks. Once finely tuned, the master watch-maker disassembles the Tourbillon<\/strong>, then\u00a0checks that every single part is in perfect condition, and that the whole set is free from dust or scratches, before\u00a0finally proceeding\u00a0to wash all of the components.<\/p>\n

\"richard-mille-factory-visit-5\"The same master watch-maker re-assembles the movement, then\u00a0places it within the case, and let the watch run\u00a0for two weeks<\/strong>, so as to completely fine tune the watch since the pressure and the temperature affecting the encased caliber are different from those affecting the caliber running on a test bench. If everything is working properly, a bracelet or a strap are attached to the case \u2013 a process that would last at least three months<\/strong> if nothing goes wrong! Both for the Project Managers<\/strong> and for the sports car industry the applying rule of thumb is the following: \"One Man<\/strong>, One Engine<\/strong>\", that is to say that each tourbillon gets its own single master watch-maker assigned to it.\u00a0<\/p>\n

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(Photo credit:\u00a0Horbiter\u00ae's proprietary photo-shooting, courtesy of Richard Mille)<\/p>\n

Gaetano C @Horbiter\u00ae<\/p>\n

Instagram \u2013 Gaetano Cimmino<\/a><\/strong><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Twenty years ago Richard Mille was a young brand in the world of haute horlogerie, but today it is his most authoritative representative in the hyper-watch sector and the only brand that was able to put together technology and performance that are worthy of the aerospace industry and the Formula 1 world with historical complications. […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from A glimpse into the world of Richard Mille: welcome to rocket science watchmaking<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":14831,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[561],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-26352","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-richard-mille"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nRichard Mille factory visit<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Twenty years ago Richard Mille was a young brand in the world of haute horlogerie, but today it is his most authoritative representative in the hyper-watch sector and the only brand that was able to put together technology and performance that are worthy of the aerospace industry and the Formula 1 world with historical complications.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/glimpse-into-the-world-of-richard-mille-report-horbiter\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Richard Mille factory visit\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Twenty years ago Richard Mille was a young brand in the world of haute horlogerie, but today it is his most authoritative representative in the hyper-watch sector and the only brand that was able to put together technology and performance that are worthy of the aerospace industry and the Formula 1 world with historical complications.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/glimpse-into-the-world-of-richard-mille-report-horbiter\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Horbiter \u00e8 il magazine italiano sugli orologi di lusso. 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