{"id":25896,"date":"2021-03-17T13:33:43","date_gmt":"2021-03-17T13:33:43","guid":{"rendered":"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/iwc-at-sihh-2015-please-welcome-the-portugieser\/"},"modified":"2025-06-09T07:25:54","modified_gmt":"2025-06-09T05:25:54","slug":"sihh-2015-iwc-report-almost-and-beyond-perpetually-yours","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/sihh-2015-iwc-report-almost-and-beyond-perpetually-yours\/","title":{"rendered":"IWC at SIHH 2015: please welcome the new Portugieser."},"content":{"rendered":"\n

It is not by chance that we have not given during the fair a preview of any of the novelties introduced by IWC<\/strong><\/span> at the SIHH 2015<\/strong><\/span>, but just released a picture of some of them on our Instagram profile.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Behind the celebrations for the anniversary of an emblematic collection from IWC<\/strong>, the Portugieser<\/strong> (as Italians we will continue to call it \u201cil Portoghese\u201d<\/em>, but please don\u2019t call it \u201cPortuguese\u201d<\/em> in English anymore), lays an impressive product development roadmap that goes well beyond the current year, and it revolves around present and future mechanical manufactured movements. To have given even a simple preview would have been reductive to say the least.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

\n\n\n\n\n\n<\/figure>\n\n\n\n

The Portugieser<\/strong>\u2019s 75th<\/sup> anniversary<\/strong> is all about design, new products but, above all, a decisive acceleration towards the brand consolidating its position among well-established high-end watchmaking industries: concept, development and in-house production of every single component.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

This message, quite clearly expressed during the press conference, has three main take-outs<\/strong>: the continuous improvement of the current range of complicated calibers<\/strong>, the upgrade of the Portugieser\u2019s collection<\/strong>, a great deal of work on details<\/strong>. The most visible outcome is the launch of two new models<\/strong>, as well as six products updates<\/strong>; this raises the technical bar and improves brand awareness even further.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The future is represented by the launch of two new calibers<\/strong>, the IWC 69000<\/strong> and the IWC 42000,<\/strong> a chrono<\/strong> and a three hands base movements<\/strong>: this will also mean that some entry-level models will adopt very refined in-house movements (expect the 42000<\/strong> to go on the 40mm<\/strong> Ingenieur<\/strong> and the Aquatimer<\/strong>, the 69000<\/strong> to power the Aquatimer<\/strong> and Pilot\u2019s<\/strong> chronos, maybe). We will discuss this in a separate article.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The flagship of the 2015<\/strong> collection is the Portugieser Annual Calendar ref 5035<\/strong>. Eagerly awaited, teased and previewed, it fills in the gap between the Portugieser Automatic<\/strong> and the Perpetual Calendar<\/strong>, and is a complicated as neat as the Portugieser<\/strong> Automatic<\/strong> (it features a 44,2mm<\/strong> wide and 15,3mm<\/strong> thick case), with the addition of three tiny windows for month, date and day of the week, placed along a circular sector at 12.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

IWC<\/strong> has developed a new caliber belonging to its 52000<\/strong> caliber platform, the 52850<\/strong>; this activates, merely via the crown (as always, no corrector is placed on the case<\/strong>), all months, except for February and leap years; for that we have the perpetual calendar.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Indeed, the entire 52000 series<\/strong> has been further improved by adopting, for instance, ceramics for reducing mechanical friction (the rotor\u2019s ball bearings), a new rotor design, an increased balance wheel operating frequency. In a nutshell: 4Hz calibers<\/strong> boasting a 7 days Power Reserve<\/strong>, increased efficiency<\/strong> and an enhanced visibility of the movement<\/strong>, whose size is comparable to the case\u2019s width.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"SIHH<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

IWC<\/strong> automatic timepieces have indeed a close to one movement size to case size ratio<\/strong>, thus making the Annual Calendar<\/strong> a complicated wristwatch that blends the pros of a high-efficiency automatic watch<\/strong> (I\u2019m talking about the updated Pellaton<\/strong> winding system) with an almost \u201cskeletonized<\/em>\u201d three-spoke bidirectional rotor<\/strong>, so that it almost feels like holding in your hands a complicated with a manual wind<\/strong>, Pocket Watch<\/strong> like caliber, for the pleasure of true connoisseurs.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

So far no other brand in today\u2019s haute horology has conveyed this message as successfully as IWC<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

I asked myself why IWC<\/strong> added the writing \u201cAnnual Calendar<\/strong>\u201d on the dial. Was it necessary? Probably not, but I think the answer is to be found in the word \u201csymmetry<\/em>\u201d, which is taken quite seriously at Schaffausen (I already discussed this in a previous post, with reference to the Top Gun\u2019s Perpetual Calendar\u2019s four counters symmetry): try to ideally remove the writing from the dial, and it will seem that the circular sector has been moved towards the inner rehaut, thus increasing the visual gap between the window itself and the two counters plus the \u201cIWC Schaffausen<\/strong>\u201d wording.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

What is hard to show you with photos is the \u201cglass box\u201d sapphire crystal: on the wrist, the Annual Calendar<\/strong> is \u201cperfectly balanced\u201d and if it weren\u2019t for the price point (21.500<\/strong>\u20ac for the stainless steel model, 31.700<\/strong>\u20ac for the red gold, approximatively) it could easily overlap the Portugieser Automatic<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The Portugieser Automatic<\/strong> itself has undergone a technical renovation, receiving the updated caliber from the 52000<\/strong> family (52010<\/strong>), featuring a C\u00f4tes de Gen\u00e8ve<\/strong> and a perlage finish<\/strong> (and two barrels).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Portugieser<\/strong> has always been associated with the Perpetual Calendar<\/strong>, and IWC<\/strong> has the greatest collection of complicated watches with a perpetual calendar \u201cbase architecture\u201d, whether you\u2019re a professional diver<\/strong>, a sailor<\/strong> or a pilot<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"SIHH<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The IWC<\/strong> 89801<\/strong> caliber thus equips the 45mm<\/strong> platinum<\/strong> (25 pieces<\/strong>) or red gold<\/strong> (75 pieces<\/strong>) Perpetual Calendar Digital Date Month Edition \u201c75th Anniversary\u201d<\/strong>\u2019s case.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The Perpetual Calendar<\/strong> complication thus comes with a month<\/strong>, date<\/strong> and leap year<\/strong> (placed at 6) digital visualization<\/strong> and a flyback chrono<\/strong> function.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

It is a fascinating complication, such as it appears on the Aquatimer<\/strong>, a Pilot\u2019s<\/strong> Watch<\/strong> or an Ingenieur<\/strong>, but I believe it to be a bit out of context on a Portugieser<\/strong>, as it has a high-tech take look that does not really comply with a Portugieser<\/strong>\u2019s style. It will retail at 45.700<\/strong>\u20ac (approximatively).<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The classic Portugieser Perpetual Calendar<\/strong>, invented by master watchmaker Kurt Klaus<\/strong> (he was at the Fair) has been updated too.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The reference 5034<\/strong>, featuring the double moon, for both Northern and Southern hemispheres, has replaced the next full moon countdown indicator with stars-embellished dial (as it appears on the Pilot\u2019s<\/strong> Perpetual Calendar Edition Le Petit Prince<\/strong>, if I\u2019m not mistaken). It comes in white gold<\/strong> at 40.900<\/strong>\u20ac (approximatively) and at 38.900<\/strong>\u20ac (approximatively) in red gold<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

The reference 5033<\/strong> has been aesthetically updated and now adopts a highly curved sapphire crystal. It will retail for 39.900<\/strong>\u20ac in white gold<\/strong> and 37.900<\/strong>\u20ac in red gold<\/strong> (approximatively).<\/p>\n\n\n\n

I honestly can\u2019t fathom why this model is also on offer with a double moon version, but I will attempt to find an answer to this when these three timepieces will individually feature in the Perpetually Yours<\/strong> column.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

Going up the complications\u2019 scale, the Grande Complication<\/strong> sits at the top. The most relevant esthetical update is the removal of the globe from the dial, and the return to the purity of the first Grande Complication<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The perpetual calendar<\/strong> comes with a chrono<\/strong> and a minute repeater<\/strong> for hours<\/strong>, quarters<\/strong> and minutes<\/strong>. The 45mm<\/strong> case houses 659 parts<\/strong> that activate 20 different functions<\/strong>.<\/p>\n\n\n

\n
\"IWC<\/figure><\/div>\n\n\n

It\u2019s a pity one can\u2019t admire the movement, as the case back is closed and has, instead, a wind star engraved on it.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

The strap is supplied by IWC<\/strong>\u2019s Italian<\/strong> partner Santoni<\/strong> and has either a red gold<\/strong> or platinum stitching<\/strong>, depending on the version. It will be produced in just 250 pieces<\/strong> in platinum<\/strong>, and 250<\/strong> in red gold<\/strong> and it will retail at 227.000<\/strong>\u20ac and 197.000<\/strong>\u20ac (approximatively) respectively.<\/p>\n\n\n\n

(Photo credit: IWC; Horbiter\u00ae)<\/p>\n\n\n\n

Gaetano C. @Horbiter\u00ae<\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

It is not by chance that we have not given during the fair a preview of any of the novelties introduced by IWC at the SIHH 2015, but just released a picture of some of them on our Instagram profile. Behind the celebrations for the anniversary of an emblematic collection from IWC, the Portugieser (as […]<\/p>\n

Read More… from IWC at SIHH 2015: please welcome the new Portugieser.<\/span><\/a><\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":13006,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_acf_changed":false,"inline_featured_image":false,"footnotes":""},"categories":[570,571],"tags":[],"class_list":["post-25896","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","has-post-thumbnail","hentry","category-iwc","category-watch-reviews"],"acf":[],"yoast_head":"\nIWC at SIHH 2015: please welcome the new Portugieser<\/title>\n<meta name=\"description\" content=\"Discover the IWC SIHH novelties unveiled at SIHH 2015, including a fully-renovated Portugieser collection, featuring a whole new style.\" \/>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/sihh-2015-iwc-report-almost-and-beyond-perpetually-yours\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"en_US\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"IWC sihh 2015\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Discover the IWC SIHH novelties unveiled at SIHH 2015, including a fully-renovated Portugieser collection, featuring a whole new style.\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:url\" content=\"https:\/\/www.horbiter.com\/en\/sihh-2015-iwc-report-almost-and-beyond-perpetually-yours\/\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:site_name\" content=\"Horbiter \u00e8 il magazine italiano sugli orologi di lusso. 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